ubiquitus

Hi. I've been having continuing starting problems for the past 3 months. I've replaced the ignition switch twice, starter and the wiring pigtail on the switch with individual wires.

I've figured out the problem. It is the wiring going to the starter, so now to start the car, I have to turn the key to "on" and jump a hot wire and one to the starter solinoid.

Would there be any problems with running that wire to the starter solinoid and connecting it to the yellow wire on the ignition switch and cutting out all of the stock faulty crap wiring? I already have VATS disabled, so that's not a problem. I just don't want there to be any chance of fires or something not working doing it this way.

Thanks in advance.

ubiquitus

anyone?

shoebox

Have you checked the theft deterrent relay?

ubiquitus

No, I haven't. Where is it located in the car? It's tricky because it sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't.

shoebox

It is to the right of the glovebox, next to the hatch relay. Consult starting system schematics on my Tech Page. That should help you narrow things down.

ubiquitus

I believe I've found the problem. When testing all of the wires at the theft relay, my ignition switch doesn't always deliver 12v when trying to start the car. I believe its out of adjustment. That would also explain why my accessory function behind the lock position doesn't "click" into position.

Does anyone know off hand if the ignition switch should be moved forward or backward to fix this? I'd like as little time as possible upsidedown in the floorboard lol. Thanks.

shoebox

Just look at which way the rod is moving and adjust the switch to allow the rod to travel further (like when starting).