sc93

OK I have the mods in my signature now. Stock heads for now...
It's an A4, daily driver.

Comp Cams 224XL Camshaft 224/230 duration @ .050", .503"/.510" lift with 1.5 rockers, .536"/.544" lift with 1.6 rockers. Almost as powerful as the XH but easier on the valvetrain.

I think that's the one I want. I don't want something that doesn't make power until like 6000 rpms.... How does this cam compare to the CC305 and CC306?

sc93

anyone?

bad95z28

my buddy has that cam in his t/a with mildly ported heads, M6, and the bolt-ons and he made 300+rwhp and torque from about 2000-5800 rpm with a peak of 352rwhp. almost makes me wish i would have gone with that cam instead of the cc305. but they are both similar and both make great mild street cams.

Rodrigues

I just put that cam in my car today! Infact my hands are still dirty from it! Still need to reassemble the motor and get my heads from Lloyd. I feel the same way about this cam as you do. I dont want something that will make power way up in the powerband and have to rev to 6700 and spin bearing to achieve the full effects of it. From what I hear you should shift at about 6200 which is perfectly safe with a new valvetrain. Seems like a VERY nice cam. I would say its right for you but I am biased.

sc93

Very nice. Did you do the install yourself? Any tips? What other parts did you do with it? (rocker arms, valvesprings, etc?)

Let me know how you like the cam, and what it sounds like

NiteRider

All the XE grinds make power down low, hence the more aggressive and steeper ramp rates. You should ask those who have had them in there cars for awhile but i'm sure that they will agree. The XE's achive power quicker then the magnum cams (305, 306 etc..) from what i've read. It's just a matter of what application it's for, street, strip or just picking on those stangs at your local hang out.

Lost

I'm biased too... that said this is my choice of cams.
We all know area under the curve is what is key to max power.. that are is achieved through lift and duration. LSA, duration, and lift all have effects on each other so it becomes difficult to say more lift or less duration will affect the rpm range etc in a certain way. That said, I'm going to go ahead and stereotype - long duration cams don't idle to well.. obviously.. their timing and overlap proves especially beneficial in the higher rpms though where the engine can really breathe effeciently. This cam is a lower duration cam and as such it should be more apt to passing emissions as overlap among other things should be less (though this is also dependant on LSA). It should also peak lower and should have and does have (from the dyno charts I've seen) and extremely flat toque and hp curve. While the peak numbers aren't astonishing the curve certainly is. I think it makes an incredible street cam and would do well at the track also. Besides when people ask you what kinda power you're laying down you can just say oh only about 370 rwhp oh will they be suprised.

I'd stick with a lower stall and maybe 3.23 or 3.42 gears on an auto based on the powerband of this cam.

Work the heads while you're at it and go for as much lift with the cam as the heads will allow based on flow chart data. Remember lift should be just a hair above the recommended lift on the heads so that the valves pass that point twice - once on the way open and again on the way closed - rather than only apexing at that point. So go with one of the lobe variances offered that will give you ideal lift and use some 1.6:1 RRs.

Let us know how it turns out okay?

Rodrigues

I havent finished the install yet, ive only got to the cam swapping part of the install. The only issues I had were the hub and the gasket below the timing chain cover ripping. I think it will be smooth from here. I hope I can just use RTV on the oil pan gasket. I will be using Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers, Cmotorsports springs, comp hardened pushrods, locks, retainer, hooker longtubes, pcm tuning, ported heads, lt4 headgasket, and a new timing chain.

NiteRider

Why don't you just buy a new gasket, it's not expensive at all and you won't ever have to worry about. If your going to drop the pan and not bend it you might as well change the gasket.

sc93

Thanks for the replies guys.


How would this cam compare to the 306 as far as overall powerband?

bad95z28

it makes power in a much more streetable power band.

Mr. T's Z

I like the wire set-up. Why did you go with the LT4 valve covers?

bad95z28

I went with the LT4's because I have self-aligning rockers and I was hoping that the LT4's would quiet down the noisy clatter. They did help a lot and I like the looks of them a lot better. Just something different.

WS6T3RROR

this isnt really what was asked but if you're going with stock heads. Me and a couple of other board members have been talking over what would be best for a stock headed car and the zz3 beats about everything out there for average hp and tq. it even outdoes the small crane that frank95z runs as far as i can tell. the xe 224/230 is a great cam if you plan on doing mild heads. but as near as i can tell if you could dead hook the zz3 or zz4 as its called now i guess. it would probably have a tenth and a mph over the 224/230. although the zz3 cam isnt a bolt in cam (it needs turned down on the end and the peg adjusted) its the best thing for a very mild street engine with stock heads. most people on here seem to think that cams are all about duration when its intake closing point and overall area that are more imporant. however the 224/230 should be a top performer on stock heads for its size.

jkipp84

Great cam! I've been driving around with it since last summer and am glad I chose it. No vacuum or idle problems, sounds great, and the power improved very noticeably (no dyno #'s yet, sorry ). I still have stock heads/converter/2:73's too.