I love the DRL's on my 99 Z and want to do them on my 94. Anyone in NJ done this mod? The instructions are below. I have no faith in my mechanical skillz so I would like to try it with someone or someone who has done it. Thanks


Daily Running Lights On A Pre ‘97


Well, to start things off, I will list what you are basically doing. However,
if you have decided to do this, you should already know J.


Benefits:

1. You may turn these DRL lights on/off at anytime the key is in the RUN or
(whatever the one is called when you turn the key all the way back).
2. Regardless of what position your headlights switch is in, Off, Parking
Lights, or Headlights, you can turn the DRL’s on or off, and ALL your signals
will function perfectly. Or if your fog lights or high beams are on, they still
work.
3. It looks good!


Disadvantages:

1. Takes some wiring and learning of Diodes and Relays (EASY!!!). Which are
explained in this write up.
2. A bit more in parts, including switch, led, diodes, and few other things
(All supplies needed are listed below.)
3. Unless 4 Diodes (with * next to them in schematic) are placed, the
instrument panel will come on dimly, and the radio will dim, as if you had your
lights on. Also, the door chime will sound if you leave the DRL’s on (and did
not place the diodes) IMO this is better, but some may see this as bad.
4. You catch yourself switching them on and off to watch the light… J


Notes:

These are not true Daily Running Lights, However, they function almost likewise.
I’d like to thank the previous DRL setup for the guidelines… if you will. Take
your time, and move everything out of the way before you start, EG: kick panel,
ECM/PCM etc**.

** List of things to take out first:

Kick Panel (Under Steering Wheel) (2) 7mm and (2) Phillips screws.
Panel Under glove box held in by plastic ‘nails’. Just pull them out.
Whatever Is in the way so you can install your switch. (Ash tray, shifter boot,
etc.)
ECM/PCM. Rear Passenger side of engine bay. (2) 10mm.
Plastic panels under each turn signal lens. (6) 10mm bolts. Unbolt (2) bolts
from the Air Dam and bend it so you can reach in. Don’t be afraid, the dam
bends 90* easy with no worry of damage.
Daily Running Lights on Pre ’97

Tools Needed:

Needle nose pliers
Regular set of pliers
Socket wrench with 10mm and 7mm sockets
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron/Gun and Solder (Or if you like, use the plastic wire splicers.)
Knife or Blade
Wire Crimpers/Strippers (Needle nose pliers will suffice, but are not
recommended.)
Drill (For mounting switch and LED)
Electrical Tape. (Its not a tool but whatever J)

Supplies Needed:

(60ft)* Wire (Enough to run from inside fuse box to On/Off switch. Two wires
from switch to Pass Signal Lens, Two from pass signal to drivers signal. And
about 5ft extra for LED and the rest will be used on the relays. My estimate
on length is 60 [* This is a very safe guess 60ft will do, incase you
underestimate, make a mistake, etc.])
(2) Automotive Relays. 40Amp 12V Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT).
Radioshack.com sells them for 2.99 (maybe 3). They aren’t in the stores
anymore, I don’t know why. That’s the cheapest place to get them. Anywhere
else is somewhere in the 8-9 dollar range, and from the dealer… they wanted
16.95!!!! (BTW these are the same relay as your fog light relay.)
(6*) Diodes. 50Volt 1Amp. These are 69cents plus tax for two at Radio-shack
(Store). Since they come in sets of two, you will have 4 total. No biggie,
incase you loose one, seeing as they are somewhat small J. *4 of these diodes
are an option; see disadvantages on page first page. (#3)
(10) Slip on clips. These are crimped around the end of a wire, and then slip
onto the tabs on the bottom of each relay (5 on each relay), were 2.06 at
AutoZone for 20. Make sure they fit the relay.
(1) LED (Light Emitting Diode). 12volt Rating. MAKE SURE YOU GET 12VOLT
LED!!! Otherwise you will blow it up if it is say, a 2volt LED. Or unless you
know about resistors, you can use 500 Ohms before Cathode on LED (If you don’t
understand that do not worry, its not needed). This was about 1.50 at
Radio-Shack. These are those little lights you see everywhere. Will be used as
an indicator as to when your DRL’s are on or off. I used a 4.5mm, red, just
like the factory alarm LED. Also, if you decide to do this LED indicator, it
would be wise to pick up some sort or LED holder/mount. If you look for a bit
(Radio-Shack) you will see them, they are little black plastic things, about 5
to a pack, for less than $1. They slip over the LED so you can pop it into the
hole you drill for it without it falling out… Plus it looks good J. Ask them
to help you find them.
(1) ON/ON Switch. This switch will be used to turn the DRL’s on and off. The
switch should have On/On displayed on the box it comes in. Was about 1.50 at
electronics store around here (Crash) however, Radio-Shack has them too. Don’t
be afraid to ask them to help you out, better to get it right then do it again.
This switch should have (3) pins on the bottom. (Middle pin is constant, each
side pin switches depending on which way the switch is.)
(1) 30 Amp In-Line Fuse & Fuse Holder, also at Radio-Shack. This will use a 30
Amp fuse. There are little kits in which can be purchased that come with
holder, wires and fuse. Once again, if you’re not sure, ask for some help.
It’s around 2.00.
(~15) Plastic Wire Splicers. These are great if you don’t feel like chopping up
more wires and doing some soldering. I did not use them, but you know where to
look for them.
(1) Turn signal flasher. The stock one prohibits this from working. If you
finish this setup and you try you turn signal and it just stays on, you didn’t
replace the flasher. AutoZone, $2.06 Triton Stant Model EL12 12Volt 2 Terminal.
Very Easy To Find
(?) And if you want to, get some plastic ribbed wire tubing (all over the engine
bay if you have no idea what I mean) makes the wires look trim and stock when
running along fender wall to signal lens etc.


Ok, first to start off, make sure you have all the parts. Once you do that, I
would check the relays to make sure they work. The easiest way to do this is
exchange one with your fog light relay. (Note on that, if you have done the
high beam fog light ‘mod’ this wont be a good way to test them out). Then, once
you have switched them, turn on your fog lights, and then your brights. If the
fog lights turn off, it works. If not, then the relay is either the wrong type,
broken or you have done the high beam fog light ‘mod’.

**SKIP THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOG/HIGH BEAM ‘MOD’**
If you have this ‘mod’ then you must test the relay a different way. You have
to put a current from pins 86 and 85. If the relay makes a clicking noise,
assume it works correctly. (A good power source is a simple 9volt battery.
Just put two wires on it and attach to corresponding pins 86 and 85

------------------
Me: Carlton Jr. 24 years old, black guy, hit me at AOL/CS IM CJ99Z28302LX

1999 CHEVROLET CAMARO LS1 Z28:Black/tan leather interior,T-Top 6-speed coupe
Loudmouth cat-back,ported maf,whisper lid,eibach pro kit,18x9.5" y2k chrome C5,Lakewood adj Panhard,various appearance modsw/ZAINO!
309.7hp 321.2ft lbs torque 100 degree heat outside dyno

1994 CHEVROLET CAMARO LT1 Z28:Onyx Black/grey interior,A4 Hardtop Coupe
flowmaster cat-back

See my cars pics, mods and future mods on CJ's Camaro Z28 spot the net: www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Strip/6966/