Finally spoke with Gary Cook and he will be doing my 3" stainless steel, x-pipe, true duals, with cut-outs running real mufflers. They will be hooked up to Hooker longtubes. I will be bringing my own mufflers so I need to figure out what will work.

I will not use bullets!
Whatever muffler I use it must be stainless, I have this thing against aluminized stuff. What muffler and how much space do you think I have??



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2001 Pewter Z28 Hardtop auto with a 2.73 gear
The factory freak
COMPLETE MOD LIST:
Whisper Lid w/ K&N filter, DynoMax bullet muffler dumped, Gutted cats, Free air mod, Stock aluminum D.S. (Mine had steel), !MAF screen, !front swaybar, !rear seats

Best ET: 12.59
Best mph: 111.23
Best 60FT on stock tires, stall and
gear: 1.88

2000 Pewter SS 6-speed
Basic bolt-ons, Eibachs & Koni's
Best ET: 13.26
Best MPH: 109.7
Best 60FT: 2.15 (Nittos)

 

Part #40359 Borla Pro-XS (T-304 stainless)
Inlet 3" (center)
Outlet 3" (offset)
length 14"
height 4"
width 9 1/2"

Maybe this one?

 

Dynomax Ultra Flo™ SS Muffler (T-304)
This will probably be alot cheaper than the Borla. This looks like my first pick, provided it fits.

 

Eldebrock has 2 different versions, both are stainless steel. I have the one that is 3.6 thick. Look in Jeg's, they give specific sizes. You really need to be careful in factoring what will fit. Where do you want to put the muflers? Where do you want to put the cutouts? Often times, where the mufler man says is the only place that they will fit, is the last place where you would want them. Take your time & map out where you wante everything to go, and make sure you get it the way that you want.

Just a tip, if you put the mufler in the back (assuming that you are going all the way back) keep in mind, that's like putting a weight on the end of a big stick, it will bounce around alot. Mine kept breaking the bullets welded on brackets. So, in hindsite, I would leave them under the car, as I have.

I do have cutous before the muflers, but I've determined I dont like them there, because of the cutouts being so close to the fuel filter. I would have been better off putting a provison which allowed me to unbolt & bolt in a bullet, or turndowns, if I needed to.

What I would do if I were you: Off Hookers, go stainless back, on drivers side, I would go oval there, because of increased clearance, to the X pipe, to the mufflers, whatever you choose, then back over the axles. If you are stuck one the cutouts, I would put them just after the headers.

I hear alot about Cook, but have never seen his work, but a place I would suggest is Stainless Works, they are in Ohio. I'm sure price would be the same, but this place would create the system with mandrel bent pipe, not mandrel pieces welded together, which may not sound like a big deal, but I dont see how they could weld 2 pieces of pipe together without getting slag inside, which, although maybe minimal, would affect flow inside the pipe.

As you can guess, I have put alot of thought into such a system. My ideal, would be the above system in oval, from the front, to the back.

If you need the # to Stainless Works, let me know. Does Gary Cook have a mandrel bender, or does he use pieces?

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hchap63@hotmail.com

01/SS, Black A4, TR224/112, ARE stage 2 heads, lid, FTRA, PMAF, PTB, Grott LT, true duals, NGK, ASP pulley, Vig 3200, LCA, poly TAB, Convo pros, ET Streets, 3300 raceweight. Little bit of juice..

Best ET: (All bolt ons) 11.496@116.42 (1.52)

Current best after Head & cam & nitrous:
10.88@124 (1.60)

Motown Muscle King of The Hill winner 6-8-02. Want some? Get some!!

RIP #3 Dirty Dale!!!

 

He has a bender as far as I know. I will be dumping before the axle. I will make the system fully bolt-on / bolt-off. Probably the mufflers as well so I don't have to mess with cutouts but we will get it up and figure it out. I want the car to be somewhat quiet thats why the Dynomax are my first choice in mufflers and I want the car to be able to sound like the gates of hell just opened too. We will see...

 

He uses pieces. A mandrel bender is over $100,000. The welds are TIG welded and there is virtually no slag inside the tube at the welds. Please stop by the shop, i'm sure he wouldn't have a problem with you checking out his other work.

 

Cool, thanks.

Nick, I think the problem that you will have is with the muflers that you have mentioned being too wide. Even if the case is 4" thick, you can only go so far over, because of the TQ arm. Also, you would be wise to get something that would give you a little space in there for future upgrades.

It sounds like it will be a nice system when you are done though. Will it be ready by M7?

 

Nick keep me posted on your findings. I'll be looking to get a true duel setup as well, when the money comes in.

BTW how's the mantis??

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2002 Z28 white/neutral A4 3.23
13.33 @ 104.7 - 650 miles
286rwhp/311rwtq - 1300 miles
STOCK for now!
Gone but not forgotten,
1999 Silver SS 6M #3956
1997 Black Z28 A4 3.23
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Ryan S.

 

He ate everything I could throw at 'em. Spiders, moths, flys, crickets......I returned him to the wild after a few days.