Sealed box? aluminum or plastic? kill switch mandatory?

 

Yup, battery in a sealed box and a kill switch located outside the vehicle. Or instead of the box you can install a "firewall" of either steel or aluminum, can't remember the thicknesses off hand.

 

ok, so which wire to the coil on an lt1 do I need to use for the kill switch hookup?

 

The kill switch is to disconnect the +12V feed of the battery to the rest of the car.

 

but if you kill the 12v feed it can still run off the alternator...I thought it was supposed to kill the ignition completely

 

I didn't think the kill switch was mandatory unless you were going 10's. Im no expert though.

 

Mike,

I know it has to kill the full electrical system because if there is an electrical fire they are supposed to be able to push the kill switch to shut off the power source. I don't know exactly how to wire it, but I will look in one of my older GMHTP magazines because they had an article about this.

Eric, as soon as you relocate the battery you need the kill switch.

 

A battery relocated to the rear of a car is required to have a master disconect switch and that must also kill the charging system. A Painless Wiring CHARGING SYSTEM SHUTDOWN
RELAY KIT #50103 is the easy way to do it.
The Alternator feedback can keep your engine running even with the master disconnect turned off - this kit eliminates engine run-on. Highly recommended by most racing sanctioning bodies. Easy to install with all hardware and instructions. 35 amp maximum for racing only.
Any sealed battery box is ok... it must be vented by some means to the outside of the car.
How fast a car can ET ( 5 seconds or 35 seconds) has no factor in any of the above. Battery in Rear of car MUST have above to pass tech.
A shut down relay interrupts the "BAT" wire on the alt when the master dis switch is off.