1994 Camaro Z28
5.7l LT1 engine
6-spd MN6 transmission with Ripper Shifter
3.42 posi rear end
headers with 3" single exhaust
approved rollcage
800 lb Hypercoil front springs (spare set of 650 lb)
Stock 114 lb rear springs (cut 1-1/2 coils)
32mm Front Sway bar, 19mm Rear
Bilstein Shocks valved for Road Racing
Polyurethane bushings all around
13" ZR1 front rotors with Wilwood superlite calipers with Wilwood Thermalock pistons and Wilwood Polymatrix pads
Stock 11" rear rotors and calipers with Hawk HP+ pads
Motul 600 Brake Fluid
Synthetic fluids all around
8 - 9.5x17 ZR1 wheels (4 with Kumho V700, 4 with Firestone SZ50) 275x40x17 tires
Re-inforced Strut Bars
Re-inforced Panhard bar
Front Tower Spreader Brace
K&N Induction
Integrated SFCs
All suspension components are new
2 - OMP seats, 5-pt harness for driver, 4-pt for passenger

Only had 109,000 km when I got it.

For Pictures, History of the Racecar click Here
then Click on the "Building the Car" Link

$13,000 US
Will consider REASONABLE Offer.

 

ttt

 

$13k?

can I ask why you are running stock shocks and cut rear springs in a road race car

 

ohhh, hehe

 

Note... running Bilstein shocks as it says.

Cut rear springs to provide a bit more stiffness, and to lower the car.

Have over $26K US in building the car. but I know that is way "over the top".

Note I am open to REASONABLE offer.

 

 

I have a spreadsheet on my website of all the costs to build the car. It is in CDN.... convert $35K to US = about $26K.

Take a look

Click on the "Building the Car" link, then at the bottom of that page, there is another link to the SpreadSheet.

I have nothing to hide.

 

1/3 of that is labor dude, you will never get that back in selling a car unless your name is John Lingenfelter or something like that.

I didn't realize the car came with extra wheels and tires and shop manuals and stuff

you definatly paid too much for somet stuff though
45.80 for a Serpentine Belt?

Air Filter Assembly C&P 314.43

Spark Plugs C&P 121.20

Fuel Pressure Regulator C&P 242.65

Labour to Suspension, etc C&P 7700.00

They better have done more than cut your rear springs fornsion for $7700 in labor!

Move Car 3 Times C&P 180.00 - you expect someone to take this into concideration?!

Air Charger Kit (Foil) C&P 82.61 $82 for an air foil!?

Wheel Alignment OK Tire 60.00 - come on...

Harness Belt - 6 pt Drivers Edge 322.15 that sounds a bit expensive

I really hope that you aren't padding these prices, that would extremely immoral.

 

I know I paid too much to have the car built.

I agree that there is much labour $ in the car.

BUT..... this is what I paid..... plain and simple.

And I haven't "padded" anything... I have all the bills for these $.
In fact, now that I think about it, there are a couple of items I forgot to include ($1000 to "fix" the rollcage to conform to specs, $180 for an injector/fuel system flush).

Also, you guys don't realize that we have to pay dearly to get US parts shipped and brokeraged (across the border) to here. UPS rapes and pillages us severely.

For those of you who don't believe me.... oh well.

Canadian conversion to US is about 1.35 right now.

And, as I said, I am open to REASONABLE offers.

Cheers,

 

hey noticed you have the wilwood kit... emial me if you are at all interested in swapping out that for Ls1 brakes...
you will get prolly more in the trade then you will if you sell it with the car
please consider
ken

 

I think his price is reasonable...about half what he has in the car. It's amazing how fast the bill rises when putting a car together. I bought a front wreck 96Z M6 (40k miles) about 5 years ago for $5500 to build as a SCCA autocrosser C-Prepared. With a stock motor, fiberglass front and heavy duty suspension mods, I've got almost $20k in the thing. It will out-corner a Z06 Vette, but still has no cage and a stock drive train. I could spend another 20k easy on it! Especially if I modded the engine.
regards,
Cal

96Z autocrosser
2000 B4C
2002 TA WS6 convertable

 

little things add up...

i've spent more on my car than i could have imagined.

one thing though: all that work on suspension and no motor work?

 

I made a decision that I would become a better driver before going for more power. You can only put so much power down on the short courses we run in autocross in the midwest. I sometimes run quickest in my class at an event, then have our region's most experienced driver run the car through the course and he usually bests my time and runs what would have been fast-time-of-the-day. That means I'm not getting all I can out of the car. No sense in spending more on engine/clutch/rearend mods if I'm not driving the car to it's full potential. Besides, I have had nothing break on the car in five years of hard service. I just dust it off, check the oil, put gas in it and go racing!
regards,
Cal

 

Sold.

Thanks to all for your info (even the negative).

Cheers

 

sold for how much?

did you sell to another canadian?