Hey guys

Tim in Wyoming 82601

For sale is my beautiful LT1 383 shortblock.

This engine was built for at least 525 horsepower N/A.

Shortblock includes timing cover, stock aluminum accessory bracket, power steering pump, and water pump, but no A/C compressor, as I was going to run it without A/C and sold the A/C stuff.

Here are more details: All short block parts are brand new

-1997 2 bolt main LT1 block with all new plugs and cam bearings
-Pro-Gram main cap reinforcement straps with ARP studs (see pics 2 and 3 below).
-12.4:1 compression with 55cc combustion chambered heads (still safe for an LT1 running 91 octane fuel)
-block inspected, cleaned, clearanced, decked, align bored, etc
-bored .030 over using deck plates
-Mahle PowerPak forged -5cc flat top pistons
-Callies forged 6" rods
-Callies/Howards Cams Track Smart 3.75 stroke forged/nitrided 4340 steel crank (1 piece RMS)
-Rotating assembly and stock flywheel all balanced by Jerry at Jteam Custom Engines
-Pistons are .005 in the hole (my own preference)
-Brand new Melling oil pump (standard volume so it doesn't suck all the oil out of the pan)
-New oil pickup and tube
-Brand new water pump gear/drive shaft bearing
-Stock LT1 oil pan (yes it clears the 3.75 crankshaft)
-I have a flexplate if you want to run this engine with an auto trans

The crank is sent to Callies by Howards Cams for finishing, so I call it a Callies crank. It is called a "Track Smart" crankshaft. Regardless, it is a 100% Made in the USA crankshaft.

I have a set of stock LT1 heads and an LT1 intake, as well, if you want to buy these parts.

I'm asking $4350 SHIPPED for this shortblock plus the other accessories/parts, which I will ship in a separate box.

This is less than the amount I spent on it all.

Any questions feel free to ask here.

Or Call Tim at 307 399 1696

I take PayPal.

Pics of engine and also the components before it was built:





















-Tim

 

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I keep getting questions about the 2 bolt mains.

Guys, this shortblock will handle over 600 horsepower. Call Jerry at J-Team Custom Engines in Casper, if you doubt me.

Sorry if that's too weak for you.

 

its just a pet peeve of mine why people think this means its better? and its a false claim in your ad anyhow as you have several parts not made in the usa in that engine. including the compstar rods and crank they were made in china and finish machined in the usa only. just like scat crank or rods

they are all quality parts regardless where they are made, its a good sell, free bump.

 

you can't put a hp number on that. some may live some may not. the cast cap is just too small and there is not enough surface area clamping to keep it from fretting and walking. some guys live, some guys grenade. the ONLY guarantee you can put is every two bolt at that power will show signs of cap walk. also if you studded the mains. make sure the mains were line honed because the main bores will be out of round swapping to studs.

 

I never claimed that "Made in the USA is better". It's just my preference. I am proud to be an American and also served my country in the Marine Corps.

Has our country gone to heck....it's getting there. But look at our leadership. Enough said about that.

OK, I'll be more specific:

IT is NOT a Compstar crankshaft. The crankshaft is sent to Callies by Howards Cams for finishing, and it is a Track Smart forged 4340 steel crankshaft made from grade 4340 aerospace chromoly American forgings. I guess Howards Cams and Callies could be lying.

IT was a pain in the *** finding a one piece RMS forged steel crank that was made in the USA and that cost less than $1200.00, but I finally found this one

The Compstar rods are, indeed, shipped from overseas but then finished here in America by Callies. Good enough for me.

I still consider the rods to be "Made in the USA."

I wasn't trying to make any false claims as to the parts being made in the USA.

And Jerry at J-Team told me the 2 bolt main is very strong and can withstand over 600 horsepower. I trust Jerry, since he's been building engines for over 30 years, and he is the best engine builder we have here in Wyoming.

Anything can break if overstressed. I've seen Manley rods fly out from underneath cars at the dragstrip. It happens. I just figured 525 horsepower with some LE2 heads and cam would be enough for most guys for the street.

 

Jerry's words were, "I've built tons of 2 bolt main engines for customers, and I have yet to hear about one of my engines breaking."

This doesn't mean that none of his engines have broken, though.

I had cash in hand and wanted to pay him extra to do 4 bolt main splayed caps, but he refused my money and told me to spend it on something else.

He's a good guy.

YES, Jerry align bored and honed the mains and did all the necessary machining to make it all nice and purdy.

If whoever buys this WANTS 4 bolt main splayed caps, I'll need extra $$$ for this, and I'll have Jerry do this for you. I'll tell him my buyer DEMANDS this, and then he will do it. He won't be getting to this shortblock for about 7-9 days anyway.

 

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no disrespect but u getting that price foe a 2 main is gonna be rough. I could see a 4 main pulling that price, well good luck on selling it , if u willing to drop the price a bit i might be interested in it.

 

I am only asking what I put into it, which I think is fair.

Plus it includes all the accessories...alternator, bracket, power steering pump, water pump.

Plus I am throwing in a set of LT1 heads, an LT1 intake, and a throttle body.

This is a good deal.

 

And a guy could always have the four bolt caps put on it or i could have Jerry do it before delivery.

I have not paid Jerry to do this.

This stuff aint free, plus I don't need it.

 

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I'm not even charging what I put into it. I'm losing money on this engine.

My price is firm.

This is a high quality engine.

 

I talked to my engine builder, and he told me it is better to stick with the studded two bolt mains as opposed to doing SPLAYED four bolt mains.

If four bolt mains are wanted, it would be better to go with straight 4 bolt mains.

He said that doing SPLAYED 4 bolt mains on a 2-bolt main block could actually weaken the block.

He then laughed and scoffed about how nobody listens to him about not needing a 4 bolt main engine for the street.

I don't care about launching it at a drag strip 1,000 times. I just wanted a bad *** street car, and this is why I just stuck with 2-bolt studded mains.

So, this is a great engine for street use.

I hope this clarifies everything.

I'm getting tired of people talking about the 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main issue.

If you want a good engine, there here it is. If not, then kindly keep your opinions to yourself, and go buy another engine from someone else, or build your own.