98+ Brake swap write-up
08-08-2004, 07:20 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Beaufort,SC
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98+ Brake swap write-up
Okay, there are a couple people asking for a write-up on the swap so I will post from memory how to do it. Sorry if I forget something. I wrote everything down and took pics, but never posted it since I lost the camera, and now cannot find the Write up. I have done this a few times so I should be able to get it by memory.
This is for the swap using new hubs. Obviously if you are re-using your existing hubs you will have to remove the calipers and rotors to get them off. It is easiest to remove the Hubs before taking the Knuckle off the car unless you have air tools.
Disassembly
1: Jack up car and put on jackstands with front suspension at rest.
2: Remove front tires.
3: Disconnect Brake lines (soft/hoses) from hard lines and block har lines to avoid too much fluid loss.
4: Remove Brackets where the lines connect to the Chassis.
5: Remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut at Tie rod. I think it is a 16mm. May need to put the castle nut on upside down and hit with a hammer to get the Tie rod loose. Knuckle will now rotate freely.
6: Unplug ABS sensor, then remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut at Lower Ball Joint. I think this was a 21mm. Getting the lower ball joint to seperate from the Knuckle could sometimes be the hardest part. I just turned the nut upside down and jacked the Assy up a little while striking down on the nut. If you are planning on replacing the Ball joints, you could just use a seperator/pickle fork.
7: Remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut from Upper Ball Joint. I think this one is a 15mm. May have to tap this one up with a hammer, but be sure to have the nut on a couple threads to avoid the Upper A arm from shooting upwards and then the brake Assy falling on you.
These 3 Castle Nuts (Tie Rod, Upper and Lower Ball Joints) are all that hold the knuckle on the car. So once those and the Lines are off, the whole thing should lift right out of there!
I had my 98+ setup already assembled at this point and waiting to go in. This makes this easy and with minimal down time. Be sure to check for bent knuckles and for any play in the hubs before installing the new brakes!
Reassembly
Obviously the Reassembly is Opposite of the Disassembly. I just torqued everything down good and tight and then got it where the cotter pins would go back in. The only place that gets 'interesting' is getting the hard lines to match up with the 98+ brackets so you can use the 98+ hoses/soft lines. You have to bend the hard lines quite a bit to get them to the right place, so be VERY careful not to kink or brake the line!
After you have the swap complete, you Need to Bleed the brakes well. You should also take the car for an Alignment. While the Alignment 'should' not have changed since the Geometry of the 93-97 and 98+ knuckles is the same, it is good practice just to be sure that you are good to go.
This is for the swap using new hubs. Obviously if you are re-using your existing hubs you will have to remove the calipers and rotors to get them off. It is easiest to remove the Hubs before taking the Knuckle off the car unless you have air tools.
Disassembly
1: Jack up car and put on jackstands with front suspension at rest.
2: Remove front tires.
3: Disconnect Brake lines (soft/hoses) from hard lines and block har lines to avoid too much fluid loss.
4: Remove Brackets where the lines connect to the Chassis.
5: Remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut at Tie rod. I think it is a 16mm. May need to put the castle nut on upside down and hit with a hammer to get the Tie rod loose. Knuckle will now rotate freely.
6: Unplug ABS sensor, then remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut at Lower Ball Joint. I think this was a 21mm. Getting the lower ball joint to seperate from the Knuckle could sometimes be the hardest part. I just turned the nut upside down and jacked the Assy up a little while striking down on the nut. If you are planning on replacing the Ball joints, you could just use a seperator/pickle fork.
7: Remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut from Upper Ball Joint. I think this one is a 15mm. May have to tap this one up with a hammer, but be sure to have the nut on a couple threads to avoid the Upper A arm from shooting upwards and then the brake Assy falling on you.
These 3 Castle Nuts (Tie Rod, Upper and Lower Ball Joints) are all that hold the knuckle on the car. So once those and the Lines are off, the whole thing should lift right out of there!
I had my 98+ setup already assembled at this point and waiting to go in. This makes this easy and with minimal down time. Be sure to check for bent knuckles and for any play in the hubs before installing the new brakes!
Reassembly
Obviously the Reassembly is Opposite of the Disassembly. I just torqued everything down good and tight and then got it where the cotter pins would go back in. The only place that gets 'interesting' is getting the hard lines to match up with the 98+ brackets so you can use the 98+ hoses/soft lines. You have to bend the hard lines quite a bit to get them to the right place, so be VERY careful not to kink or brake the line!
After you have the swap complete, you Need to Bleed the brakes well. You should also take the car for an Alignment. While the Alignment 'should' not have changed since the Geometry of the 93-97 and 98+ knuckles is the same, it is good practice just to be sure that you are good to go.
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