1. The story goes like this: ABS INOP lit up right before taking the engine off for LE2 upgrade. Found the passenger side sensor wire melted so I fixed that.

Now we got the engine back and the sensors are well connected. At first, after the first PCM write (pcm adapted to some leaks and bad sensors and was running crappy) the ABS was fine. They aired it like 3 times until they got it right and firm. I had to rewrite the PCM afterwards (the engine runs right) and since then the ABS INOP light stays on permanently even before the car moves AT ALL ... I had it act up before in the past but only when the sensor wire burned (and it lit while driving) or after installing new differentials (I had to move the car around and restart engine for it to reset). I would rewrite the PCM if I thought it was just that but I don't know...

The guys at the service didn't give me the exact error but they said the code pointed at some electrical device. I must say all the tail lights are working including the centers and the brake feel is perfect. Also they reset it or something and it worked for 1 hour or something and then the next time I started the engine it was on again.

2. E-Brake won't trigger the Brake light almost at all anymore. This poses a problem with opening the rear as it won't open with the engine running unless the e-brake is on... I have no idea where the e-brake sensor is. The e-brake itself is a little soft but holds well at about 30 degrees.

How would one read the ABS errors using a cable that works to read/write the PCM? I found no software that reads those codes. I have a '95 PCM on my '96 car and use a OBD2 plug OBD1 cable

 

The PCM does not control the ABS. Its controlled by its own computer - EBCM. You have to read the ABS codes from there. Programming your PCM should not have any affect on the ABS system.

The e-brake "BRAKE" light is also used by the front/rear pressure differential switch on the side of the ABS motor, to indicate problems between the front and rear braking systems. If the switch is not working, the electrical circuit to the switch is damaged or the "BRAKE" bulb is burned out, it is likely that the EBCM would interupt the ABS system, and render it inoperative = "ABS INOP".

When you turn the key to "on" without starting the engine, does the "BRAKE" light come on?

What do you mean by "This poses a problem with opening the rear as it won't open with the engine running unless the e-brake is on... " Do you mean you can't open the hatch release unless the brake is on?

 

The "BRAKE" light works, it lights up when I start the engine and it used to light up a lot more when pulling the e-brake (not every time though). Right now I've pulled on it a lot and it won't light up... Also i've done a bunch of powerful stops since the ABS INOP won't go away and the car stops very well, even and straight, but locks the wheels past a certain point.

While the engine is running I can't pop the trunk using either the dash button or the remote button unless the e-brake is pulled AND the BRAKE light is on

But if you say they might be linked, killing the ABS is by far worse than not being able to open the trunk

Can I read the EBCM codes using my cable and some free software?

Thanks.

 

Looks to me like you have two unrelated issues. I think there is a switch on the emergency brake handle that activates the brake light when the handle is pulled up. I would check that switch. You would have to remove the console to see it. The trunk isn't supposed to open with the remote or dash button if the car is running unless the brake handle is pulled. If the switch is bad or a bad connection the controller for the trunk release doesn't know the handle is pulled.

I don't know of any software you can use to scan for abs codes. I went to the dealer to get mine scanned.

 

The parking brake handle assembly has an L shaped bracket that bolts to the floor pan.
The E-brake switch is in the flat part of the bracket, at the very front.

 

I'm thinking in 13 years it may have gotten dirty or something
I'll have them open it up and check it.

Also maybe the code the ABS gives will point at some specific switch or relay or something that I can just buy separately

 

UPDATE:

Guess i wasn't paying enough attention to this but today I tested it and the BRAKE indicator doesn't light when turning the key to ON... I turned the key to ON a few times and one time it flickered for 1 second then went dead - this should mean the bulb is not defective, but rather the electronics behind it, I reckon...

I'm guessing then this is most probably the cause for the ABS INOP and the handbrake not lighting problem.

I'll notify the people at the service but until I get there, is there anything I can test or slap to try to revive?

Thanks!

P.S. While driving the car in the weekend I had a most unusual thing happen - the alternator stopped working, I had low voltage and the "Check Gauges" light on. I looked at the connections and slapped it around but nothing happened. It did start working after revving the engine to 5000rpm+ and hasn't had any problems since... I didn't try stopping the engine and restarting. Still pretty strange... The alt is like new, low mileage...

 

Why not pull the gauge panel and replace the bulb yourself?

 

Well as I said, the bulb seems to be working as it flickers sometimes... I'm thinking the switch you said between the brake lines or something else along those lines might be at fault...

Besides I haven't a clue how to open the dash, and I wouldn't want to mess something up back there going at it bolt by bolt