Ad for PA Racing K member. What's the real deal?
#1
Ad for PA Racing K member. What's the real deal?
Any truth to any of this?
Our K-Members are made with provisions to reuse the factory motor mounts and motor stands. We have found that incorporating the motor stands into the k-members not only weakens the k-members, but makes it impossible to remove the motor through the top of the car.
This is a direct bolt in component. All of your factory components will work with this k-member. We have found it to be the ultimate choice for Street, Strip, and Road Course use. We are the original and still the best fitting and lightest for this application. Our K-members weight between 18-20lbs, thats a fraction of the factory units weight.
For almost $200 less than a BMR K member it's hard to say no. Unless, of course, all this is false and it is gonna be a lot of bs to install this thing properly.
What install and use differences am I lookign at, if any, with using the PA K without the motor mounts welded on vs using a BMR K with the motor mounts already welded onto it?
Our K-Members are made with provisions to reuse the factory motor mounts and motor stands. We have found that incorporating the motor stands into the k-members not only weakens the k-members, but makes it impossible to remove the motor through the top of the car.
This is a direct bolt in component. All of your factory components will work with this k-member. We have found it to be the ultimate choice for Street, Strip, and Road Course use. We are the original and still the best fitting and lightest for this application. Our K-members weight between 18-20lbs, thats a fraction of the factory units weight.
For almost $200 less than a BMR K member it's hard to say no. Unless, of course, all this is false and it is gonna be a lot of bs to install this thing properly.
What install and use differences am I lookign at, if any, with using the PA K without the motor mounts welded on vs using a BMR K with the motor mounts already welded onto it?
Last edited by slider; 02-17-2004 at 05:24 PM.
#3
I can pull my Motor and put it back in from the top with my BMR no problem, and it has the integrated mounts.
As far as weakening concerns go, I have no clue... I can't see a reason as to why.
As far as weakening concerns go, I have no clue... I can't see a reason as to why.
#6
i have a PA ready to go on my 97,and friend has a PA on his 87 formula for a while. cant beat the room they offer,and the price is great. BMR has a few extra pipes to it,but havent seen 1 up close.
we have no regrets in regards to the PA.
we have no regrets in regards to the PA.
#7
The PA has been working well for me, but there are some quality contol issues.
PA doesnt seem to own a wire brush or grinder, as they just powder coat right over the slag.
Also, check out the placement of the bolt holes for the frame mounts. One is directly under the main bar. It was an SOB to get the bolt in, even after finding a short bolt and trimming the head.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_173_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_175_full.jpg
And I didnt like the fact that it came with no instructions and no bolts - just the k-member itself in box.
Where is the $200 difference coming from ??? When I bought mine last year, there was only about an $80 price difference between PA and BMR.
PA doesnt seem to own a wire brush or grinder, as they just powder coat right over the slag.
Also, check out the placement of the bolt holes for the frame mounts. One is directly under the main bar. It was an SOB to get the bolt in, even after finding a short bolt and trimming the head.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_173_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_175_full.jpg
And I didnt like the fact that it came with no instructions and no bolts - just the k-member itself in box.
Where is the $200 difference coming from ??? When I bought mine last year, there was only about an $80 price difference between PA and BMR.
#8
Originally posted by speedmiser
The PA has been working well for me, but there are some quality contol issues.
PA doesnt seem to own a wire brush or grinder, as they just powder coat right over the slag.
Also, check out the placement of the bolt holes for the frame mounts. One is directly under the main bar. It was an SOB to get the bolt in, even after finding a short bolt and trimming the head.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_173_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_175_full.jpg
And I didnt like the fact that it came with no instructions and no bolts - just the k-member itself in box.
Where is the $200 difference coming from ??? When I bought mine last year, there was only about an $80 price difference between PA and BMR.
The PA has been working well for me, but there are some quality contol issues.
PA doesnt seem to own a wire brush or grinder, as they just powder coat right over the slag.
Also, check out the placement of the bolt holes for the frame mounts. One is directly under the main bar. It was an SOB to get the bolt in, even after finding a short bolt and trimming the head.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_173_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...0_175_full.jpg
And I didnt like the fact that it came with no instructions and no bolts - just the k-member itself in box.
Where is the $200 difference coming from ??? When I bought mine last year, there was only about an $80 price difference between PA and BMR.
Were there any install problems because of the PA not having the motor mount brackets already on it like the BMR does?
#10
Originally posted by slider
There are PA K members on ebay all the time for under $300. That's where the $200 or so difference comes in.
Were there any install problems because of the PA not having the motor mount brackets already on it like the BMR does?
There are PA K members on ebay all the time for under $300. That's where the $200 or so difference comes in.
Were there any install problems because of the PA not having the motor mount brackets already on it like the BMR does?
Prices at Thunder racing still show only a $80 difference between the two brands. But if you can get a new PA for under $300 and dont mind a few hassles - then go for it. If I had it to do over, I would have paid extra to get the BMR...
#11
Originally posted by speedmiser
Only problems I had were the ones I mentioned above. If the mounts were integraded, I wouldnt have spent hours trying to find the right size bolts and modifying the one to fit through a poorly designed mounting point.
Prices at Thunder racing still show only a $80 difference between the two brands. But if you can get a new PA for under $300 and dont mind a few hassles - then go for it. If I had it to do over, I would have paid extra to get the BMR...
Only problems I had were the ones I mentioned above. If the mounts were integraded, I wouldnt have spent hours trying to find the right size bolts and modifying the one to fit through a poorly designed mounting point.
Prices at Thunder racing still show only a $80 difference between the two brands. But if you can get a new PA for under $300 and dont mind a few hassles - then go for it. If I had it to do over, I would have paid extra to get the BMR...
#14
Originally posted by cndctrdj
if neither kit comes with bolts is thier a reason?
i don't get it.
does the bmr come with directions?
if neither kit comes with bolts is thier a reason?
i don't get it.
does the bmr come with directions?
#15
I have the BMR and there were some fitment issues on my car: (1) pass side Hooker LT interferes with k-member... unforgivable considering the Hookers are probably the most popular LT header for these cars... I ground the k-member and dented the tube for clearance but have to do it again since I didn't go far enough (got a good 1/8" clearance but settled back down to "zero" clearance after running it), (2) the integrated motor stand really reduces the space available for maneuvering the engine in the top... I got the shortblock in (which was close) but I think the heads will have to come off to get it out of there again (I have a Canton pan which may be a factor), (3) the passenger side motor mount tends to sag... I had to put a big washer in there to keep the rear bushing from working itself halfway out (this didn't totally fix #1 but helped), (4) I got the Canton pan version and had to lengthen my steering linkage to fit (I removed the rag joint and installed a 1.25" thick aluminum spacer).
Other than that I am happy with the quality of the piece... great looking welds, etc.
So it sounds like whatever choice you make you are going to have to do some customization.
Other than that I am happy with the quality of the piece... great looking welds, etc.
So it sounds like whatever choice you make you are going to have to do some customization.