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More money out of my pocket, lovely. Perhaps BMR and PA should read the board and take notes

simple

my car, had no problems at all with the BMR (LT1 mounts) and Hooker LT's
great welds, great powder coating, great clearance, big diameter tubing!
no instructions but its a straight forward install and no bolts, you reuse all the factory hardware!

thats my findings with my k-member

speedmiser

No way the stock bolts would work for the PA - they are way to long. As far as instructions go, they really arent needed, since the job is pretty staightforward, but it would be a nice gesture if PA threw a few install pointers in the box - at least bolt sizes and such *** since they dont include them ***

The Hooker LTs cleared fine though.

Red_94Formula

my only prob with my PA was the motor mount bolt getting in the way of the bar. i simply drilled another hole next to it to solve that prob.

Live for TAs

I bought one off Ebay, and after reading the above can confidently say . It installed ok (same problems as noted above reference tight fit for motor mount bolts, and I had to buy some 12mm x 40mm bolts to attach it to the car), but today when I went to attach the brake lines, I noticed there were no lugs for mounting the factory brake line/hose fitting on it like the factory K-member has. There is also no place to attach the screw that holds the line forward from this lug.

In light of this, I am having to make two custom brackets per side after measuring the stock K-member for dimensions.

I'm going to do some more searching here to see if anyone else has encountered this problem or if my K-member is unusual.

95wannabe

anyone using S&W parts ?
http://www.swracecars.com/pdf/CENTERS2.PDF

speedmiser

There's no need to make new brackets for the brake lines. You can redrill and mount the stock brackets on the frame w/ a couple of self tapping screws. If I remember correctly, I think I bent the bracket straight, before I remounted it.
Anyway, the lines have plenty of slack and they dont get in the way of the springs - here's a pic at the mounting point.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...201570_231.jpg

blksunshine

This good info on the pa since I will be installing one soon.

slimdawson

I got a PA member for my Camaro and was disappointed a bit.

As said before, the welds needed help. The stock bolts could not be reused. It did not offer the weight savings it claimed. It weighed about half of my stock k member(but didn't save me the weight they claimed). My control arms did not work at all. I had to cut them and reweld them. I think they said they have redesigned their kmembers to work with stock parts now but they had claimed they would when I bought mine. I ended up tie wrapping the brake line to it.

It may be 200 bucks cheaper than another one, but it still should be a relatively painless experience to put in, and also not suffer in the quality department. At least it hasn't cracked yet(on that note, I should check tomorrow).

Heatmaker

I have a PA-racing K-member installed on my car... Put it on a while ago... It was cool getting it on.. pissed me off about the bolts... and no directions... but I just figured it out... not that hard. Brake line situation is super Pissy if your using Steel Brakelines... These things should come with bracket extensions... (now that this post reminded me... I guess I'll make those tommorrow).... The welds look awful... and there's excess all over the thing. They could alteast clean it up. Otherwise for the price it's nice... and it's lighter than the stocker... which weighs as much as a tank. compalin over sepending 200 extra for a BMR to save 6 pounds bah!!! rahter just go on an atkins diet and loose them there... it was worth it just to gain the engine access... and not worrying abour loosing tools in the bay any more. The weight difference is highly noticeable.. car springed up a bit higher. No cons to it really... well worth the upgrade... only problem I had on my install was fitting the RAck and Pinion back in.... Tabs didn't meet up at all... Pissed me off somehting good. I ended up cursing and beating the **** out the thing till it fit in. I was pissed for a while after that... but hte damn thing looks so good under the car.. it's like it should have been there all along...

I'd go PA RACING over BMR... because the price was right. and I pretty much got what I wanted....


Oh yeah...

PA-RAcing K-member you'll need to get smaller Bolts ... The Size is M12 X 1.75 75mm You need 6 of them if I recall... you can find them at Home Depot, Lowes, Pep turds... ETC

That should save you some time... I spent half a day going around the world with my stock GM bolt trying to find an idiot with the right measuring tool to tell me the size of my stock GM bolt... so I could get hte shorter replacements... Don't know why PA doesn't tell you that...but that pissed me off too...

RacinLT1

I just put the pa racing piece on my car,knew i had to get bolts,so took a stocker to home depot and got the sizes mentioned above.
It saves plenty of weight,has NO bad welds,fits great,and i'll worry about brake lines later.

we have had a PA unit on a friends 87 for 2 years and no problems whatsoever.

Live for TAs

Good information- sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees . I've been doing so much engineering on this car to get everything to fit in (and it all has not yet ) that I didn't even think about attaching the line brackets to the body/subframe.

Also, the bolts I used were rated 12.9 (strength rating, stock bolts were 10.9, and I think most hardware stores will sell 8.8 which is lower than stock rating) and 40mm long, which is the same length as the rearmost two bolts. I think if you use the stock two front (long) bolts for reference, you will have bolts that are too long or that are not threaded all the way down and you won't be able to tighten the K-member. I'm using socket head bolts with 7/16 washers and 1/2 lock washers until I can get a set of 10.9 hex head bolts with 12mm washers.

kandied91z

i've been running the chromoly coilover version on my 91 for almost 2 years now.