AlwaysCode390

I got an adjustable BMR torque arm and polished adjustable panhard rod that I want to install tomorrow or Thursday. I have the pinion angle tool. What am I actually adjusting....my driveshaft angle to my torque arm? What about the panhard? I got good deals on this stuff or else I probably would have gotten the NON adjustable, lol....THANKS---

Bud M

On the torque arm, you are adjusting the angle between the driveshaft and the rear end like you said. When the driveshaft and the torque arm's flat mounting plate on the differential are parallel (read the same angle on the angle finder) the pinion angle is 0. From there adjust the torque arm so the pinion moves downward. When there is 1 degree of difference between the driveshaft and the mounitng plate, you have -1 degree pinion angle.
On the panhard bar, just adjust it so the rear tires are centered between the fenders.

AlwaysCode390

Thanks Bud, isnt it about -2 to -3 for the 6 spds with the torque arm?! Is there anything dangerous I should watch for when taking off the stock torque arm/panhard rod, or the subframe connectors?! I appreciate it, I will be doing this tomorrow ---

OBE1 95Z28

For the street, zero to -2 degrees put less stress on the U-joints. For drag racing, -2 to -4 degrees.

AlwaysCode390

Anything dangerous to watch for tomorrow when I unbolt any of the stock torque arms, panhard rods, subframe connectors, and lower control arms? I dont know suspensions very well and dont want something pressurized to swing and knock my teeth out/rip off my head, LOL!!!! THANKS!!!---

ws6transam

Unbolt only one part at a time. Put the car on jack stands that are located just forward of the LCA body mount holes. Leave the axle hanging on the shock mounts. Unbolt, remove and re-install the new LCA. Then do the same on the other side. Next, do the panhard rod. Then pull the torque arm clamshell apart and free it from the transmission mount. Once the torque arm is hanging free, it'll be unloaded enough that you can safely remove it from the axle. When installing the new torque arm, you will probably need a rubber mallet to force the new mount onto the axle. Save yourself some grief by using a file or sandpaper to smooth off any rust, metal burrs that are located on the axle mounting tab. Then apply a little axle grease onto the mounting tabs. After that your new axle should slide on with some effort from the rubber hammer.

AlwaysCode390

Thanks alot BRO, you just made me feel confident enough to tackle this right now, wish me luck ---

What holes do the subrame connectors use? I dont think the kit came with hardware, it said to use the ones for the holes I bolt it up to?! It didnt say I had to drill anything either, hmmm. Does the car have stock ones to replace? That can be next weeks project, but I still need advice ---

AlwaysCode390

I only got the panhard bar on , hahaha. Took me an hour and a half because I had no instructions and everything was rusted SHUT!!! I tried to get to the lower control arms but couldnt bust the inner bolt loose . Then my buddy started to think we couldnt do the torque arm if we had problems with everything else. The instructions for the torque arm say you may have to jack up the transmission?!?! Is that auto only or 6 spd too? Thanks---

Bud M

I didn't have to jack up my transmission to install my torque arm. But it was a more difficult install than I expected.
l

AlwaysCode390

Thanks Bud, I may try it still....I know I can get it done, just need a full day, lol....JUST incase ---

96camaroSS

Remember to support the rear of the car by putting jack stands under the axle tubes before you set the panhard rod adjustment. You need the weight of the car to load the suspension because as the rear end moves up or down it also moves left or right. So your aiming for centered under normal chassis stance.

AlwaysCode390

OOOH I wonder how off I am, hahaha. I set it when it was up in the air from one side on a jack!!! OUCH. It has been riding ok so far.....I wish I didnt get the adj. stuff , I just dont know what I am doing enough, lol!!! Thanks 96ss---

96camaroSS

Don't sweat it! It's an easy correction to make. I didn't go the adjustable LCA route so I haven't had that pleasure. But getting the panhard rod adjusted correctly is easy. Unless you have a non-stock wheel/tire combo in the back you probably can't tell if you're off center. For me, it matters because I'm running 17x11's with 315/35/17 rubber. Also went with the 36mm offset because I didn't like the idea of the inner rim lip crowning over the bump stops. My setup sticks out the wheelwell on each side by about 1/2" so it's very obvious when it's not on center. Just remember, on center only applies when the suspension is loaded and sitting stationary. As the rear suspension loads and unloads the rear axle moves left/right by design.

AlwaysCode390

Awesome, I am also running the 315's. I will make a BOB and measure that way....should be easy enough, thanks for helping me. Without you I would have ran it the way I set it, lol!!!---

AlwaysCode390

A site I saw the other day had a string and a weight, then you put the string on the fender and let it rest on the tire. Then measure the length from the fender to the tire, and see if the other side is the same. That is how I was going to do it. I have an angle finder for the Torque Arm, what would I use it for on the PHR?---