JasonK94Z

I just moved to Hot Springs, AR, and it seesm that arkansas has some of the worst roads in the world. I will be replacing both outer tie rods this weekend that are just barely bad, and will need to get an alignment. I have DMS lowering springs (1.5" drop). I'm tired of the damn car jerking left and right going down the road. What are some good specs to follow with alignment?

shoebox

Those wide tires are going to follow any grooves in the road made by traffic. That's the nature of wide tires with short, stiff sidewalls. Asphalt roads frequented by big trucks will be worse. They are not all bad.

Can't tell you what might help. You don't want to make a change that might accelerate tire wear.

JasonK94Z

Last time I got an alignment was about 5 months ago. I was told then that my outer tie rod ends were wearing and have some very slight movement in them. I looked and saw for myself then too. I figured I'll just go ahead and replace them this weekend and get the front end aligned again. I'm not so sure the shop i used for alignemnt last time did a good job since he was having some problems with his machine.

JakeRobb

You could put narrower tires back on the front of the car. There really isn't anything else that will make a big difference.

bluz28

Make sure your running a little toe-in ("1/32)
And have the camber set as close to 0 degrees as possible.
Also some tires are really bad about following imperfections in the road, regardless of size.

Blue Oval

lowering the front only will slightly reduce the caster angle and make the car more squirrelley. Have the caster set to max and think of replacing all worn parts. Also Urethane bushings will reduce squirmyness at cost of harsher hits on sharp bumps. Toe in or out is only to compensate for worn parts and flex that all street car suspensions have.

Blue Oval

If you lowered front and back.. then you might need lowering spindles. If you have arm front suspension? then the camber will go positive too fast and it will go all over the place. It was designed to ride higher, and needs to be lowered correctly to drive correctly.

Chewbacca

These cars gain camber (it becomes more negative) when they are lowered or when the suspension compresses. It does not go positive or "all over the place". You do not need lowering spindles.

Hope you like replacing that urethane caster bushing once a year (or more). Urethane just doesn't last very long there. Stick with rubber.

JasonK94Z

I ended up replacing the outer tie rods and getting a good alignment. The alignment was all over the place, and the split was unequal on both sides. no wonder the damn car couldn't be handled. the roads are bad here in places, and sometimes if you were driving with one hand it would damn near jerk the wheel from you.

And no poly up front for me. they suck, they are noisy, and they bind. I'll stick to Moog rubber replacements.