Another drag setup question
#1
Another drag setup question
Right now my car is on 88k mile bilsteins that sag to the passenger side. The car hooks good on the slicks at the track, but on the street it's TERRIBLE. I'm going to be putting in a UMI k-member in the next few weeks, but I dont think I'm going to put the a-arms yet. I'm going to use that 600 and change to put new shocks and springs. I was thinking QA1's, but was reading that some people like the summits. I'm also on a stock TA, which I think I need to ditch. The car will be on 28" tires on the street and track. My goal is to make it dead hook on the street in first.
#4
what other suspension mods do you have? I wouldn't start w/ a tubular k-member.... that isn't a very good bang for you buck traction mod.
and as far as shocks go, I am very happy with my lakewood 50/50's. They are great for the price and i have seen them work very well on several other cars.
and as far as shocks go, I am very happy with my lakewood 50/50's. They are great for the price and i have seen them work very well on several other cars.
#5
what other suspension mods do you have? I wouldn't start w/ a tubular k-member.... that isn't a very good bang for you buck traction mod.
and as far as shocks go, I am very happy with my lakewood 50/50's. They are great for the price and i have seen them work very well on several other cars.
and as far as shocks go, I am very happy with my lakewood 50/50's. They are great for the price and i have seen them work very well on several other cars.
#6
rear springs, i run the v6 f-body springs on the back with v6 struts up front. i cut a .1 off my 60' from doing that. unless you want to dish out money for the eibach drag kit, i'd run the v6 springs because they are cheap and will cut better times than stockers
torque arm, i'd suggest the spohn tunnel braced adjustable one. I personally have an umi, and i snapped that with my bolt on lt1. UMI of course replaced it for free, but I'm hearing better things from spohn. tunnel braced is the way to go. period. and i keep my pinion angle @ -4*. -4.5* if you want to push it some more.
lca relocation brackets are a great bang for your buck mod as well.
and then last get an adj phb.
somewhere in the mix of that add a drag bar, how much body flex you are getting off the line is going to determine when you need that.
and above all.... STICKY TIRES
torque arm, i'd suggest the spohn tunnel braced adjustable one. I personally have an umi, and i snapped that with my bolt on lt1. UMI of course replaced it for free, but I'm hearing better things from spohn. tunnel braced is the way to go. period. and i keep my pinion angle @ -4*. -4.5* if you want to push it some more.
lca relocation brackets are a great bang for your buck mod as well.
and then last get an adj phb.
somewhere in the mix of that add a drag bar, how much body flex you are getting off the line is going to determine when you need that.
and above all.... STICKY TIRES
#7
The only thing I do have, here's a pic of a launch from pinks all out. You can see how bad it twists to the passenger side. I think i'm going to go QA1s in the front, I was just talking with my neighbor who has them and likes them a lot. For the back maybe ill give the v6 springs a shot, just got to decide which shocks.
#9
The only thing I do have, here's a pic of a launch from pinks all out. You can see how bad it twists to the passenger side. I think i'm going to go QA1s in the front, I was just talking with my neighbor who has them and likes them a lot. For the back maybe ill give the v6 springs a shot, just got to decide which shocks.
I should get my car back tomorrow from the shop, (line lock, abs delete, cruise control delete, nitrous tune) and take it to the track one more time this year to check out the added HP. If I can't dead hook like it does now I'll get some QA1s for the front. But I'm not to crazy about the price or the fact they need rebuilding from time to time.
#10
I'm going between 1.62-1.66, it's not the track so much i'm worried about. I'm trying to make the car hook on the street. Right now the car hooks so hard it bogs at the track even off the rev limiter. If I can cut some more off the 60' that would be nice, but not my ultimate goal.
#12
#13
not really.
if he/she decides to run drag radials, the car can dead hook.
just remember to dial everything in correctly. I can launch my car from 2300 rpms and dead hook in my car on (non-drag) radial tires. given 97s10 has more power than me, he/she can opt to run drag radials, which will definetly allow the car to hook on the street
if he/she decides to run drag radials, the car can dead hook.
just remember to dial everything in correctly. I can launch my car from 2300 rpms and dead hook in my car on (non-drag) radial tires. given 97s10 has more power than me, he/she can opt to run drag radials, which will definetly allow the car to hook on the street
#14
not really.
if he/she decides to run drag radials, the car can dead hook.
just remember to dial everything in correctly. I can launch my car from 2300 rpms and dead hook in my car on (non-drag) radial tires. given 97s10 has more power than me, he/she can opt to run drag radials, which will definetly allow the car to hook on the street
if he/she decides to run drag radials, the car can dead hook.
just remember to dial everything in correctly. I can launch my car from 2300 rpms and dead hook in my car on (non-drag) radial tires. given 97s10 has more power than me, he/she can opt to run drag radials, which will definetly allow the car to hook on the street
#15
define "dead hook" too..... as in you want to punch it from a dead idle/stop and want it to hook? your ideal launch from a m6 is just a little bit of wheel spin.
first thing i would do is ditch the lca's and rear shocks. the stock lca's are very flimsy and shocks is the key element in suspension.
I honestly don't think a tubular k member shouldn't be on your shopping list at the moment. that money can be spent elsewhere and get better results. if you want that weight reduction, take out the front bumper supports... it's free and saves just as much weight. just hope you dont get in a front end collision
first thing i would do is ditch the lca's and rear shocks. the stock lca's are very flimsy and shocks is the key element in suspension.
I honestly don't think a tubular k member shouldn't be on your shopping list at the moment. that money can be spent elsewhere and get better results. if you want that weight reduction, take out the front bumper supports... it's free and saves just as much weight. just hope you dont get in a front end collision