Bleeding brakes w/traction control
#1
Bleeding brakes w/traction control
Hey guys. In my Haynes manual it says if you have traction control that you have to have Tech 1 to bleed the brakes. Is this true? Also my right rear inside pad was worn to bare metal. The rotor is obviously SHOT. It made noise even when the pedal was not pressed. The outer pad is worn down very far but not as bad as the inner. Could that be a pad Caliper?
#2
Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control
Originally Posted by defbear
Hey guys. In my Haynes manual it says if you have traction control that you have to have Tech 1 to bleed the brakes. Is this true?
Originally Posted by defbear
Also my right rear inside pad was worn to bare metal. The rotor is obviously SHOT. It made noise even when the pedal was not pressed. The outer pad is worn down very far but not as bad as the inner. Could that be a pad Caliper?
Last edited by sir dyno; 04-24-2005 at 12:52 AM.
#3
Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control
Now a days it's almost the same price to buy a whole new caliper rather then rebuild it, also alot of people don't rebuild them either. But as stated before, just bleed the brakes like your used to, passanger rear to driver rear to passanger front to driver front.
#4
Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control
I wonder why the manual says it??? I'll go ahead and bleed them anyway. However I have depressed the caliper piston as much as I think it will go in but I cannot get the new pads to fit over the new rotor. I have actually sanded the new brake pads down. Its close but I can't seem to get it. Also the new pads have wear indicators on them but my old pads did not. The new ones also had small "nipples" (I guess you could call them) that I had to sand down to make them fit flush with the caliper. The surface area of the pads and shape are the same as the old ones though. I'll have to try to depress the piston more I guess?
#5
Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control
Originally Posted by Kataklysm
Now a days it's almost the same price to buy a whole new caliper rather then rebuild it, also alot of people don't rebuild them either. But as stated before, just bleed the brakes like your used to, passanger rear to driver rear to passanger front to driver front.
Rebuild your caliper, or if you have to buy aftermarket caliper, then make sure the weight is the same. No sense in adding more weight to the front or rear end.
#6
Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control
Originally Posted by defbear
I wonder why the manual says it??? I'll go ahead and bleed them anyway. However I have depressed the caliper piston as much as I think it will go in but I cannot get the new pads to fit over the new rotor. I have actually sanded the new brake pads down. Its close but I can't seem to get it. Also the new pads have wear indicators on them but my old pads did not. The new ones also had small "nipples" (I guess you could call them) that I had to sand down to make them fit flush with the caliper. The surface area of the pads and shape are the same as the old ones though. I'll have to try to depress the piston more I guess?
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