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BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

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Old 10-17-2004, 08:53 PM
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BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

Im basically redoing my entire suspension this winter and although I wont have the money to do the front upper and lower A arms or K member I am figuring on doing the entire rear suspension with BMR boxed sfc's, LCAs and relocation brackets, adj.panhard rod and PHR relocation bar. BMR sway bars, etc

My question is when it comes to the torque arm i was looking at the BMR Trak Pak but is this considered to be over kill for the street and would I be better off with the regular non adj Torque arm or is the adjustability of important enough to spend 150 dollars more? Im gonna be running boxed SFCs so will this stil be compatable with the track pak or not, also will there still be enough clearence to run a true dual x pipe system as well?Also are adj Lca's a good idea or does it not really matter?



sorry for all of the questions,
-john
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:51 PM
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Re: BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

Lets start with the easy question. Adj LCA's, not necessary for most people.

As far as the trac pac, the only draw back for a guy running with a y pipe is 2" of ground clearance in the center of the car! This really sucks. It comes with a crossmember that is plenty long for any type of SFC. I had to the xmember to fit the SFC's. It is adjustable because eveyone will weld it to a slightly different spot on their SFC's.

The lowest part on the xmember is where it dips down for ONE 3-4" exhaust pipe. My suggestion is ditch the x pipe, and dump it under the car like 90% of the people running true duals. There may be another TA that has more room for duals, but I don't know of any. Anymore questions, just ask.
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:59 AM
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Re: BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

as long as you're not looking to autox race, xtereme duty is fine, and as long as u dont mind a lil rough ride, the improvements r well worth it. i drive on the strreet with et streets, and track pack, and race only lca's, etc, and i love it. you will to...probably
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:10 PM
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Re: BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

Originally Posted by Red96Lt1
Lets start with the easy question. Adj LCA's, not necessary for most people.

As far as the trac pac, the only draw back for a guy running with a y pipe is 2" of ground clearance in the center of the car! This really sucks. It comes with a crossmember that is plenty long for any type of SFC. I had to the xmember to fit the SFC's. It is adjustable because eveyone will weld it to a slightly different spot on their SFC's.

The lowest part on the xmember is where it dips down for ONE 3-4" exhaust pipe. My suggestion is ditch the x pipe, and dump it under the car like 90% of the people running true duals. There may be another TA that has more room for duals, but I don't know of any. Anymore questions, just ask.

So the Trak pak welds to the SFC? and a couple inner points as well. I probably wasnt clear when i said that ill be running duals. THey will be dumping under the car and if the clearance of the Trak Pak is a big issue with my car lowered then im going to dump the exhaust before the crossbar. It may be alot shorter than the dump points that other people are using but i dont see a couple more feet a pipe making a big difference.

What is the purpose of a a adjustable Torque arm, I understand that it adjust the pinion angle but how does this translate into making different adjustments either + or - degrees on the street and trak for different questions?
Thanks guys,
-john
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Old 10-18-2004, 04:12 PM
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Re: BMR Tak Pak and other BMR extreme duty products. Are they overkill for the street?

The trac pac will always have an adj TA because there are so many different heights that you can weld your xmember.

As for performance issues, most people that have autos have a pinion angle of -1 -2°, manuals are usually -2 -3°. The reason for this is when force is applied from the engine and transmitted to the tires, the TA and the bushings (more so the bushings) will flex upward to counter the torque. This will give you an instantenous pinion angle of (hopefully) zero. That is your ultimate goal. I have my angle set at -1°, though it is a manual, It doesn't see the track often, and if the angle is set too far off from zero for a long time, it can ruin your universal joint. So set it at the proper angle for the strip, if it is a strip only car.
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