Jerm

I'm planning on putting together a brake duct for my fronts this weekend when I upgrade to the LS1 setup all around.

I have gone thru a few sites and have noticed ppl have installed ducting from the fog lights and also have done the air dam.

My question is, which is more efficient, having the air enter thru the fog lights or the air dam below.

Things I'm trying to take note of, is there a higher pressure of air at the front end (at the fog lights) or at the air dam. Also, is it much more efficient the shorter the ducting is?

Also, can some of you post pics of your setups. I seen the one guy that cut thru the front panel, I'm not to much of a fan of that b/c it looks as if he put it in a low pressure area.

I apologize if there is a thread of this, I searched, but couldn't find an answer to which is more suitable.

unvc92camarors

don't know about the brake ducts but the air dam makes way more difference in airflow than the fogs area
how do you think the t/a's have no fog light area for air to pass through?

btw, nice z28/ss

Xride

there is more "presure" on the airdamn.

But that said, do you NEED the ducts?
if your not getting faiding with the new breaks and good pads (hawks or the like) and with say a dot4 fluid (good on the street still) then the ducts will provide exactly 0 difference, and could make it worse buy bringing debry and water onto the braking surface.

Jerm

I will, I tend to do a lot of spirted driving in the mountain ranges. On downhill sections the weight of my car puts quite a bit of stress on the rotors, much more then any lightweight car would. I was just going to use some AutoZone rotors, figured they would suit just fine w/ the proper cooling.

You do bring up a good point about debris, I'll look to installing a screen on the air duct so the rotor will not get damaged. I have no idea how to protect against water though, may just have the ducts installed only when needed and removed for regular street driving.

Thanks for the help and compliment

MrDude_1

waters fine...

besides, you'll have to replace the rotors every few months from warping anyway... LS1 rotors are known for that...


you'll see more airflow if routed thru the airdamn.... athough if i was doing it, i would try to "extend" the airdam so that it cuts more air from under the car and scoops air for the ducts.....

Black_Z28

Ahh, water is not fine. Your rotors could crack if they're hot and water gets on them. That's why you see guys do cool down laps. So the rotors can gradually cool down.

MrDude_1

riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

hate to point this out to ya, but if you manage to get your rotors that hot on the street in the rain, the brake rotors cracking are the least of your worries.


hows this for a rule:

no riding the brakes at 100mph with the throttle on, down hill for more then 5mins when its raining unless you take the brake ducts out.

oh!, and be sure to put clear wrap around the wheel so no rain mists on it... lol.

MrDude_1

btw, for them to crack, you would have to heat them up very hot, THEN splash water on them...

i mean glowing hot. less hot if you have crossdrilled holes, but thats mostly from stress risers anyway.. assuming you have "regular" flat rotors, and then you do some hot laps and then you splash water on them when they're glowing, its a possiblity.


but
1. they arnt getting that hot in the rain.
2. they arnt getting that hot in the rain on the street.
3. if they are getting that hot, in the rain, on the street, you deserve to get your wish and die.

thinking of the most abusive rain race situations i can, i still dont ever see rotors glowing, or people taping off ducts........

Black_Z28

I was talking about on the track. And yes, the rotors can get hot enough for them to crack if water got on them. A seized guide pin can do a lot of damage if not corrected. I had the problem this summer. Things can get hot pretty quickly if the caliper isn't working properly. Granted that's not likely to happen, but it still can.

LT4Firehawk

First off, if you are having problems with warping, use a better rotor. Either Brembos from Tirerack or Wagner rotors from Oreilly's seem to hold up very well.

Second, you really don't need brake ducts unless you are open tracking the car on a roadcourse, and even then you may or may not really need them. I've used Wagner rotors with Carbotech XP race pads for the roadcourse wihtout ducting, and Wagner street pads on the same rotors for over 7K miles and they still haven't warped. And by the way, the Carbotech XP pads will get the rotor WAY hotter than any street pad will: operating range from 250-1400 degrees, versus a street pad typically only being good for up to around 600-700 degrees. And I'm not talking about a 4-5 minute drive down a mountain, but rather multiple 15-20 minute full out sessions, with 7 HARD stops each lap for 10-15 laps.

However, if you must have brake ducts, I'd recommend you get some from here:
http://www.severnmotorsports.com/
then get the ducting from a race supply store (like racerwholesale.com) and run the ducting from either the foglight openings, or get some ducts from the race supply store that will fit onto the lower airdam (cutting out holes for them).

Xride

must do some very spirited driving, I found in the mountains even my LT1 brakes with the hawk bads and dot 4 I wasnt getting any fading, even when I was going into corners way to hot and panic braking right befor the corner. there was always that 1 or 2 km straight after at most 5 or 6 corners that would cool the breaks enough.

I would go with better then jsut autozone cheapa rotors, unless you are using pads that really eat the rotor and plan on replacing all the time.

Jon A

If you don't need brake ducts, then you aren't really driving your car.

However, the only place to really drive these cars is a racetrack.

dv8mtsp

Dont do it thats stupid aarrrrghhhh


nah kidding. if you get into some sprited driving it IS possible to get brake fade. you do want to make some sort of bracket to get spread the air over the rotor because if you get too hard on em and the outside cools and not the inside then it is possible for cracking to happen, no matter what type of rotor you use. severn http://www.severnmotorsports.com/severnbrakevents.htm
makes good brake ducts for our car.

dv8mtsp

heres a pretty good dicussion on ducting may come in handy good luck

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...2&t=1522&st=15

oops forgot the link

MrDude_1

actually, i would stick to the autozone cheapos.... even the best ones warp, and with the autozones, he gets free replacements.

also, because of that, feel free to run a more agressive pad..