Brake Fluid Question [DOT 3] or [DOT 5.1]
09-01-2008, 02:16 PM
#16
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Meißen, Saxony, Germany
Posts: 102
Oh, good to know that. Next year ill try DOT 5.1.
If its the truth, that silicone is not eating rubber, then all is fine. If i have problems with ABS or something, then ill change the Fluid back to DOT 3.
If its the truth, that silicone is not eating rubber, then all is fine. If i have problems with ABS or something, then ill change the Fluid back to DOT 3.
09-01-2008, 07:03 PM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 572
JACK RABBITz:
Just be careful to minimize air bubbles in the fluid as you pour into the master cylinder. If you have any bubbles put the cover back on and give them time to rise to the surface to disappear. When bleeding don't let the master go dry and don't pump the brake pedal vigorously. Be slow and moderately firm with the pedal (slow on the release too) and ease the bleeders open and make sure your assistant doesn't cause any "suck back" by releasing the brake pedal before you close the bleeder. If you're using a hand vacuum pump to bleed with then use the least vacuum possible. Again this is to try to minimize the possibility of bubbles in the system. Of course, follow the usual precautions of 1) don't turn on the ignition (which will cycle the ABS unit) until you are compltely done. 2) bleed at the ABS block first then the usual sequence at the calipers. Good Luck
Just be careful to minimize air bubbles in the fluid as you pour into the master cylinder. If you have any bubbles put the cover back on and give them time to rise to the surface to disappear. When bleeding don't let the master go dry and don't pump the brake pedal vigorously. Be slow and moderately firm with the pedal (slow on the release too) and ease the bleeders open and make sure your assistant doesn't cause any "suck back" by releasing the brake pedal before you close the bleeder. If you're using a hand vacuum pump to bleed with then use the least vacuum possible. Again this is to try to minimize the possibility of bubbles in the system. Of course, follow the usual precautions of 1) don't turn on the ignition (which will cycle the ABS unit) until you are compltely done. 2) bleed at the ABS block first then the usual sequence at the calipers. Good Luck
09-02-2008, 11:09 AM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Meißen, Saxony, Germany
Posts: 102
Thanks for help.
At my first changing 2 weeks ago, i let go the master go dry
After that realy big mistake ive pumped 4 Liters of DOT 3 to get a result nearly without bubbles.
1 week ago i bleed again 1 Liter and get only a few bubbles and after that only verry verry small ones. I dont know what i must do. I think one of the next weeks i will pump 1 Liter again to make sure, that ire bubblefree.
At my first changing 2 weeks ago, i let go the master go dry
After that realy big mistake ive pumped 4 Liters of DOT 3 to get a result nearly without bubbles.
1 week ago i bleed again 1 Liter and get only a few bubbles and after that only verry verry small ones. I dont know what i must do. I think one of the next weeks i will pump 1 Liter again to make sure, that ire bubblefree.
09-02-2008, 12:01 PM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 572
JACK RABBITz:
If the car is driveable and if you're using DOT3.0 you might want to call a few quality brake shops and inquire if they have the tools to cycle and home your Camaro's ABS block and what they would charge to pressure flush and bleed your brake system. It might be worth it to avoid more stomach churning aggravation! If you try that route please give us a post on the cost. (I have no idea what the cost would be.)
If the car is driveable and if you're using DOT3.0 you might want to call a few quality brake shops and inquire if they have the tools to cycle and home your Camaro's ABS block and what they would charge to pressure flush and bleed your brake system. It might be worth it to avoid more stomach churning aggravation! If you try that route please give us a post on the cost. (I have no idea what the cost would be.)
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