2QUIK6

It's time to do some brake work on the '95, original brakes and need some rotors. Been thinking of upgrading the calipers to a 2-piston design in the front also. Brakes are something I really have not messed with before except pads and bleeding them.
What's the stock size on the '95, 12" is on the LS1 car, I guess the LT1s are 11" ?
Anyway, the car is not used for autocrossing but would like a nice upgrade and reduce fading.

Anyone know what these kits from Baer/Thunderracing include and which to recommend, and if they are a bolt on replacement? I don't want to have to modify the lines or the caliper mounts.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=145
or any other quality kits that are recommended?

Thanks, Robert

PoorMan

Do the C5 conversion man. Pads and rotors are many and some very cheap. Also, you can get any parts you need at any auto parts store in the future. Aftermaket brakes are going to stick you when it comes time to buy parts. A GP is still going on for the conversion bracket btw. The C5 rotors are 13".

If your still running 16" wheels they will not fit though. Need at least 17". I think the largest on 16" wheels is a 12" rotor.

2QUIK6

That is a good idea, didn't think about parts.
Yes, I have 17" wheels, so all I need is this bracket, and then buy calipers and pads from the auto store?
stock lines and all will bolt right up?
Is the C5 brakes a dual piston design?

Many thanks, Rob

5.0THIS

You need more than just calipers, disks, and pads. Pad abutment brackets, C5 lines, hardware, etc. There is a complete list floating around somewhere with part numbers.

always faster

-The C5 caliper are pressure casting compare to a gravity cast for ls1 model wich is much better.

-The c5 is a 2 pistons caliper.Disc is 12.8"

-The c5 kit caliper is pretty much exactly the same as the BEAR claw system.

-The main difference is the cost of maintenance.C5 parts are really cheap and can be purchase at any part store or your dealer.(example:rotor=less then 30$)

-You will need the c5 brake line(less then 20$) because the lt1 lines are to short.

-The only mods you need to do is cut the 2 ears that holds the stock bracket of the stock caliper, from the stock spindle.

-Thats it ,just bolt the kit in and enjoy.From my point of view this is the most effective brake system for the f-body when you talk about best bang for the bucks

Here is an install link of the complete kit that i ve purchase and install:

http://www.umiperformance.com/c5install.aspx

You can also buy your parts separetly:

Here is what you need:

Quantity GM Part Number Item Description

1 12530682 C5 Caliper- Black (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 12530683 C5 Caliper- Black (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 88895128 Z06 Caliper- Red (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 88895129 Z06 Caliper- Red (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 10445856 GM Rotor
1 10445857 GM Rotor
2 12455799 Pad Abutment Bracket
4 10139097 Banjo Bolt Cooper Washers
2 22163795 Banjo Bolt
4 12530703 Guide Pin Boot
4 12530697 Pad Abutment Guide Pin
2 10333772 Front Brake Hose- Caliper

2 Napa Part # 83212
Raybestos # H5644 Springs and Shim (Caliper Hardware Kit)
1 Set of brake pads of your choice, i suggest for a street car HAWK HPS
1 set of c5 conversion brackets(of course )

always faster

Full instructions:

1. With car on level ground break lug nuts lose on both front wheels.

2. Jack up front of vehicle, place jack stands under frame to support vehicle. Remove both front wheels.

3. It is recommended to install one side at a time, start with either side. Using a 13mm wrench loosen banjo bolt and remove rubber brake line from caliper and tie out of the way to prevent leaking, save banjo bolt and (2) cooper washers. Do not damage brake line; it will be reused if not being replaced with new lines.

4. Locate (2) caliper mounting bolts attaching caliper to the steering knuckle, using an 18mm wrench remove both bolts and remove caliper from vehicle. Caliper may require light tapping to break it lose, this is normal. Slide rotor off as well.

5. Locate ABS sensor attached to the back side of hub, disconnect sensor and tie it out of the way.

6. Locate (4) hub bolts on back side of steering knuckle. Using a 13mm socket remove all (4) bolts. Remove hub assembly from steering knuckle. Using a wire wheel clean back side on steering knuckle, this will be needed for conversion bracket to seat.

7. This next step requires cutting of the steering knuckle. Both LT1 and LS1 knuckles will require cutting. Image 1 shows a LS1 model and can be used for a guide on both set ups. Removing the ear is needed for clearance to mount the conversion bracket in place, this step must be completed! LT1 models require you to make (2) cuts. Using a reciprocating saw cut the lower ear straight off on both LS1 and LT1 models. LT1 models require cutting above the assembly hub which is necessary for caliper clearance. Once cutting is completed place conversion bracket into place to insure appropriate clearance.

8. Locate one bracket, each bracket is universal and can be used on either side. Place bracket on back side of steering knuckle were bolts from step 6 were removed. The new ears will be facing towards the back of the car. Using the new supplied 10mm bolts and lock washers attach bracket to steering knuckle while reattaching hub assembly. Make sure bracket is sitting flush on steering knuckle and tighten bolts to 63 ft lbs.

9. Reattach ABS connector making sure it clicks in place.

10. Now assemble the complete caliper assembly and prepare for installation. An exploded view of the Corvette caliper has been supplied; please use this as a reference to proceed with installation. Start by assembling the pad abutment bracket (the LS1 or LT1 abutment bracket can not be used) using the guide pin, guide pin boot, caliper and guide pin bolt, be sure to lubricate the guide pin with silicone grease. Torque spec for guide pin bolt is 23 ft lbs.

11. Insert the pad abutment shims, anti-rattle springs and brake pads into pad abutment/caliper assembly.

12. Install new C5 brake rotor. Please note rotors are directional and are only designed to work on one side due to the air vents. ONLY install the right handed rotor on the right side!

13. Now install the caliper assembly on to the vehicle using the supplied 14mm bolts (lock washers are optional but are supplied). Blue Loctite may be applied to the threads as well. Tighten the caliper into place . Using the saved or new banjo bolt and (2) cooper washers from step 3 reinstall brake hose to caliper. If you purchased a complete kit new banjo bolts and cooper washers have been supplied.

14. Repeat all steps in detail on the opposite side.

15. Before reinstalling wheels use lug nuts and tighten rotor into place as if wheel was installed. Spin rotor through out its movement and insure clearance around abutment bracket and rotor. Rotor should spin freely. Before installing wheels, turn steering wheel each way as far as possible, from out side the car check to insure the new calipers are not pulling on the brake lines. If tension is shown on lines you must purchase new lines using the part number below. The new lines will be the C5 brake lines. Check both sides.

16. Once installation on both sides is completed brake bleeding of all (4) wheels will be necessary. Start by bleeding the front wheels first and then perform normal brake bleeding starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder to the closet. This will require bleeding of the front wheels twice which is necessary. Continue procedure until brake pedal is firm.

17. Test drive vehicle to assure all components are working properly. Follow the break in procedure below. Recheck all bolts for tightness after approximately 300 miles.

RE AND CHERYL

What you do depends a lot on how much you want to spend.

Whats you budget??

2QUIK6

Thanks for all the info!
What are these 2 parts?? Isee they are some sort of hardware kit on the Napa page but not sure what they are for. ..ok, I think I found they are the anti-rattle/squeel shims..and the spring must be the little spring that goes on the back of the pad..don't these normally come with most pads if thats what they are...or is the C5 pads different?

Also, mentioned above was a GP on the conversion brackets, where from?..I found the GP in that forum but the GP price is higher than UMI's regular price by $30, is there any differences I should be concerned with?

5.0THIS

Yeah, the GP is for Bob Bishop's bracket design. A ton of R&D went into those brackets... the materials to use, the methods of production. Worth far more than 30$ more than UMI's bracket.

gt_biker13

Get the C5 brakes, i wish i had gotten those but i only had 16" wheels at the time so i got the LS1s. The C5 upgrade i think is easer because you dont have to mess around at wrecking yards looking for a stright spindel.

mitchntx

I have a complete C5 conversion with everything listed above, except for lines and calipers that I have been trying to sell.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=453550