lt4 fd

Just wondering, if I swap the lt1 brakes for the ls1's will I have to bleed the brakes or anything like that?

Xride

yes, you will have to top up and bleed your brakes. might be a good time to replace your brake fluid if you havnt done so already.

lt4 fd

How hard is it to bleed and flush brakes in your driveway, like what tools do you need etc... I have my car in a shop from an accident and dont want to pay them to do it but they are putting on knew rear lines and brakes and flushing and changing the fluid. I would do it all my self again but I need to know what Im in for... otherwise they are putting ont the ls1 brakes and lines and my fluid etc also would now be a good time to have them replace the wheel studs or can I do that anytime without taking too much apart?

Xride

if you have it all apart do the wheel studs, no sence in making it any harder or more work then it has to be.


you can bleed the brakes with a buddy and your brake pedal.
or you can go and buy/rent a tool so that you can do it yourself.

when bleeding you start from the rear pass side, then rear drive side, then front pass, then driver front.



I cant find the write up on the bleeding right now, hopefully bonedaddy will see this and respond.

Bone Daddy

First you need either (A) Brake Bleeding kit (B) A good friend that does'nt mind taking orders, a small plastic/rubber hose and a clear container (pref. glass).

First you need to bleed the ABS modulator. (large box with all the lines coming out of it near the radiator) The modulator has 2 bleeding screws. One is the front braking screw, and one is the rear braking screw.

The "rear" screw is at an angle and is closest to the engine, while the "front" is closest to the front of the car, and is straight.

You need to bleed the "rear" screw first, then the "front" screw on the modulator. Then when the modualtor is bled, do as Xride said and bleed the calipers in this order. PR > DR > PF > DF.

As to how to bleed the brakes:

Method (A)

1. Fill the master cylinder with new/fresh fluid, be sure to keep the master cylinder topped-off during brake bleeding. Don't let it go dry, ever.

2. Loosen the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Attach the hose to the bleeder screw, and the other end to the plastic container. Pump the brakes fully 5 to 6 times, stop and check the container, as the kit ones are usually small in size and fill up fast. You have to empty the fluid, alot. Be careful that the fluid doesn't get anywhere but a disposable container, even dot 3 and 4 fluid can strip paint and oxidize chrome etc.

3. Continue pumping (5 or 6 pump intervals) until all traces of bubbles are gone.

4. Remove the hose and tighten the screw

5. Top-off the master cylinder, and move to the next screw.


Method (B)

Same, but you put the hose into a jar or clear container filled 1/2 way with fluid. (hose is under the liquid to see the bubbles)

The assistant watches the container and tells you when the bubbles are gone, while you do the pumping.

When the friend says the bubbles are gone, tighten the bleeder screw. Top-off the master cylinder, and you both move on to the next.

lt4 fd

Wow thank you very much i didnt know it was that easy... just curious I have to have all this done at the colision shop its in right now, is there anything special about doing the ls1 brake swap?, I got everything I need for the swap besides lines from ta creations who said its swaps right in, but they also said I wouldnt need an alignment afterwards...

Bone Daddy

No problem, I just added a few more tips to my above post as well. And here is a guide to do the LS1 swap, it will answer the rest of your questions.

http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=30

-Bone-