Bushing question.
#1
Bushing question.
Hi, i want to know if some one used the energy suspension bushing kit?
This kit have all necessary bushing for rebuild the front upper and lower control arms?
My car is a 94 z28.
This is the link.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This kit have all necessary bushing for rebuild the front upper and lower control arms?
My car is a 94 z28.
This is the link.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
#2
I bought an ES kit at least 10 years ago that was called the Hyperflex Master Kit. It had everything listed for the kit you linked, plus the tranny mount. Included complete upper and lower front A-arm bushings. The lower A-arm vertical bushing is a different design than the stock vertical bushing, to eliminate bind that would normally result from the stiff poly bushings. It requires hammering the "can" that the stock bushing sits in, out of the A-arm. It can be done with basic hand tools, but I did mine when the car was only 4 years old. At 15 years old, you may find that rust has complicated the process.
#4
I am doing the energy front suspension kit now. I had a difficult time getting the lower arm rear "can" out. I used a hand hack saw to partially saw the side and it does reduce the press fit load a bit. It then hammered out easy. Also, used the hack saw to cut each of the rubber bushing. This seamed an easier way than a drill. The hack saw made it easy to drive/ push out the rubber cleanly. Also, used a hand torch to remove the metal bushings (re-use required by kit). Applied heat to the inside and pulled out the bushing with vise grips when the rubber gets soft. Stinks alot. I measured (with dial caliper) the lower link fastener offsets at each of the crossmember bolt-adjustors, so I could re-set the caster/ camber close for alignment during re-assembly. Assembled the lower arm before assembly of the shock-spring assembly. This was easier to do than having the spring load applied. I'm betting the alignment is on when I get it on the road. We will see. B.
#5
I am doing the energy front suspension kit now. I had a difficult time getting the lower arm rear "can" out. I used a hand hack saw to partially saw the side and it does reduce the press fit load a bit. It then hammered out easy. Also, used the hack saw to cut each of the rubber bushing. This seamed an easier way than a drill. The hack saw made it easy to drive/ push out the rubber cleanly. Also, used a hand torch to remove the metal bushings (re-use required by kit). Applied heat to the inside and pulled out the bushing with vise grips when the rubber gets soft. Stinks alot. I measured (with dial caliper) the lower link fastener offsets at each of the crossmember bolt-adjustors, so I could re-set the caster/ camber close for alignment during re-assembly. Assembled the lower arm before assembly of the shock-spring assembly. This was easier to do than having the spring load applied. I'm betting the alignment is on when I get it on the road. We will see. B.
mzgp5x did you change the ball joints to?? I have to change all ball joints.
It is difficult to do?
#6
I did not change the lower or top ball joints. They were OK. The 97 gm camaro service manual instructs to change if the ball joint can be turned (axially) by hand or with light load.
Also, if the rubber cover is cracked or broken. I had broken rubber, but joint is good. So I drilled a 0.221" hole in the lower ball joint and installed a grease fitting to purge the dirt.
Don't know why they sold the car without grease fitting??? I saw they want $18 @ Summit for lower joints (made in china).
The lower joint is press fit in the lower arm. For lower joint install you need a press or a gm tool, or, take it to an auto shop. They press in/ out thru that big hole in the lower arm.
The stock bushings were very soft and deflect alot relative to the Energy bushings. And, I have a 97SS where SLP claimed to reinstall differnt bushings. I don't think so. I think I will see a big difference in cornering cuz I know I will load it up.
Now, how do I change the bearing on the moser axel. Cannot get the pressfit ring off to change the leaky bearing??? B.
Also, if the rubber cover is cracked or broken. I had broken rubber, but joint is good. So I drilled a 0.221" hole in the lower ball joint and installed a grease fitting to purge the dirt.
Don't know why they sold the car without grease fitting??? I saw they want $18 @ Summit for lower joints (made in china).
The lower joint is press fit in the lower arm. For lower joint install you need a press or a gm tool, or, take it to an auto shop. They press in/ out thru that big hole in the lower arm.
The stock bushings were very soft and deflect alot relative to the Energy bushings. And, I have a 97SS where SLP claimed to reinstall differnt bushings. I don't think so. I think I will see a big difference in cornering cuz I know I will load it up.
Now, how do I change the bearing on the moser axel. Cannot get the pressfit ring off to change the leaky bearing??? B.
#7
i used the prothane kit on the front but im assuming its pretty much the same as ES. The lower ball joints have to be pressed out/in but mine were good so didnt mess with them. I did replace the uppers tho and used an air chisel to remove the rivets.
#8
Thank you all guys.
I have another question.
I lift the car today and check the lower ball joint and it is in good condition but the rubber boot is broken.
Can i change the rubber boot? May I buy the rubber boot only?
Thank you all again mzgp5x.
I have another question.
I lift the car today and check the lower ball joint and it is in good condition but the rubber boot is broken.
Can i change the rubber boot? May I buy the rubber boot only?
Thank you all again mzgp5x.
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