Nate LeDuc

I'm thinking about buying a set of c5 calipers off ebay:
97-04 Corvette C5 BLACK Brake Calipers Set of 4 Delco | eBay

I was wondering A, is this the real set and B, if the rear brakes are worth getting? Do they provide any kind of advantage over the stock brakes?
~Nathan

Nate LeDuc

Also, will c5 rotors fit the back tires?

pgerst

Not sure about A. They will fit on B but you have the LT1 axle which is about 1/4 shorter than the LS axle. The C5 and LS rotor both same diameter andhave built in drum e brakes which cause an offset problem with the rotor and caliper on the LT1 axle, need a different caliper bracket. C5 rotor is also thicker.

Check out this guys webpage: Luke Skaff's Project Website. He has done a great job summarizing all the specs of the different rotor/caliper options, for 3d gens but has the LT and LS as options for 3d gen upgrade, so you can back into whether it will fit or not.

FWIW, I did the LS front upgrade but kept LT rear as I felt the incremental diameter increase was minimal, caliper/pad was not much bigger either, and both LS or C5 are heavier due to drum ebrake, so did not think it was worth it for a street car. (you will need new ebrake cables as well) Just went with steel lines, good LT1 rotors and pads on the rear and have had no issues. Also you do know the c5 fronts need a 17" wheel, the LS fronts fit under the salad shooters.

Nate LeDuc

It is to my understanding that they do fit our (stock) wheels,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would only do the swap if they fit my rims. Looks like I'll be 1k in once I'm done, as I'm going with all new parts.

What ebrake cable would you suggest be used. I don't see why the stock cable wouldn't work.

~Nathan

pgerst

The front c5 caliper has ribbing across the full depth of the caliper to prevent spread; ls1 only has ribs on the inboard portion of the caliper. The c5 ribs rub against the outboard portion of the 16" wheel; I have read about guys who grind them down but once that rib is gone they are the same as the LS calipers as far as reducing caliper spread is concerned.

The ebrake cables from the yoke back to the axles are different. I believe different length and a different connection to the caliper. I also believe that the flex brake lines on the rear will need to be replaced as the LTs may be too short.

Also on the fronts, the LS and LT hard lines have a different orientation. I cut, bent and flared the LT hard lines and bought the LS hard to flex brackets from a junk yard so the flex hoses routed correctly to the caliper.

Black 97 SS

C5 calipers are presure cast, ls calipers are not.

pgerst

Good point. So if you ground the c5s to fit, they are still stronger than the LS caliper.

Nate LeDuc

So this won't bolt on with our stock rims? I may just go to LS brakes, as it seems to be much less of a hassle. can have the LS swap done for under $100, compared to the c5 which will run me 1k all new components.

pgerst

Not w/o grinding the ribs. My conclusion was to do the LS fronts/LT rears as it was the cheapest way to improve braking. Adding the LS rears gets you a much better parking brake and if i recall correctly a slightly thicker rotor. I didn't think that was worth all the work, pulling axles, etc. on the rear.

The C5 calipers/rotors are better still as they are even thicker than the LS better heat sink and the caliper is stronger, ribbed (and pressure cast) to prevent caliper spread.

I was very pleased with the LS front swap; in fact, if I made a list of "best" mods I have done, it would probably be at the top. Much better than the LT brakes and the LS calipers are lighter (aluminum vs cast iron). I have a long term plan of going to a 17 or 18 inch wheel and would be revisiting the brakes at that time.

Couple other parts on the brake swap: swap out the rubber lines for steel, get good rotors and pads (I am running ATE "slotted" and Hawk street/track pads), and use DOT 4 fluid. All of those will add a bit more performance.

Suggest a power bleeder (motive makes one for $50), really easy to bleed and a tool you will use forever. Also the ABS unit can get the pistons in the wrong position if you press the brake while bleeding with the key on; you need a GM Tech 1A scan tool to rehome the ABS pistons as it is GM proprietary coding. The power bleeder eliminates that risk.