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Changed rotors...

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Old 07-17-2004, 05:29 PM
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dtp
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Unhappy Changed rotors...

After I put on my new rotor and replace the brake pads/ put the calipers back on. Should the wheel spin freely or should there be some resistance? After putting my calipers back on (after compressing them) the wheel is difficult to turn. Is this normal?

Update: I did the other front rotor and the caliper went on fine and the wheel turned fine. Then when I went for a test drive I could smell metal on metal friction and it came from the side where the wheel didn't turn well after changing the rotor and pads.

Should I just let it be and let it wear in or do I have a problem here?
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Old 07-17-2004, 06:01 PM
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dtp
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Anyone got a source that may help me out? I hope I didn't bend anything. I looked at Install university and they say how to do the change but don't mention anything about friction after doing a change which makes me thing something's wrong with the first rotor I changed.

Update: Interesting, I can put in one new brake pad and the old ones are only halfway worn so when I used one of those with one of the new pads, the caliper fits and the wheel spins. I'll probably go with this and when the used pad gets worn down, I'll replace it with the new one I'm saving.


I'd like to use two new pads on this wheel, but I'm afraid the heat will warp the rotor.

Last edited by dtp; 07-17-2004 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 07-19-2004, 10:00 PM
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Exclamation Re: Changed rotors...

1) you just need to push the caliper piston in further (use a big c-clamp and an old pad for this, or buy a tool from NAPA, it's cheap). both pads sould fit in there fine.

2) do NOT run with a used/tapered pad with a new pad. bad wear patterns.

and most importantly: 3) remove the brake rotor and ensure it's mounted flush with the hub. Hold it one with a few lug nuts and spin the hub/rotor to see if it rotates in one plane (if not the rotor is mounted off-center or the hub is worn).

If the rotor "wiggles" during rotation you need to check the hub by grabbing the rotor at 12 and 6 and seeing if you can push/pull the top or bottom more than a few mm's. If you have the rotor off you can grab the hub flange and try to shift-it in the same manner.... more than a mm or two indicates a hub that should probably be replaced. I doubt this is your problem... but it's possible.

Just R&I the rotor, and get both new pads in there and check again.

Last edited by Steve in Seattle; 07-19-2004 at 10:21 PM.
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