changing control arms
#1
changing control arms
i hope to change my rear control arms tomorrow and i also bought the relocation brackets to go with them. is it a hard job? will i have to contend with the springs back there? just wondering what all goes into it. thanks guys!
#2
Its pretty easy. The hardest part will probably be breaking the old bolts loose, in which case I would soak them good with PB Blaster. You will want to jack the car up and put jackstands under the chassis. Then use a floorjack and place in under the "pumpkin" portion of the rearend. When you go to install the new arms, manipulate the floorjack to get the bolt holes to line up. I'm assuming you bought the bolt-in relocation brackets?
#3
yes i did buy the relocation brackets. and i have access to air so getting the bolts loose shouldn't be too hard. so installing the brackets will kind of be self-explanatory correct? my dad knows a lot about suspension and cars so i can ask him, i just want to do this myself if i can. it doesn't look too hard but then i had a mechanic say you may have to mess with the springs and that part freaks me out cause i've seen one fly out and almost kill a guy on its way across the garage
#4
shouldn't be too difficult
it will be pretty self explanatory once you get under there.
Springs won't be a problem either, 'cause once you've got the rear end at "full droop" there won't be any/much compression on the springs anyway... make sure not to stretch the brake line(s) from the body to the "pumpkin"...
Other than that, just use the jack to help lift the rear end for bolt alignment.
Springs won't be a problem either, 'cause once you've got the rear end at "full droop" there won't be any/much compression on the springs anyway... make sure not to stretch the brake line(s) from the body to the "pumpkin"...
Other than that, just use the jack to help lift the rear end for bolt alignment.
#5
You don't have to worry about the springs. There is no reason to drop the rear axle if all you are doing the installing the LCA's and relo brackets. Support the chassis on jack stands. Support the rear axle with a floor jack. Remove the LCA and reinstall on only one side at a time. That prevents the axle from moving on you.
I notice when you were asked if you got bolt-in relocation brackets, you responded "yes i did buy the relocation brackets". I'll ask again.... did you buy bolt-in brackets, or weld-in brackets?
I notice when you were asked if you got bolt-in relocation brackets, you responded "yes i did buy the relocation brackets". I'll ask again.... did you buy bolt-in brackets, or weld-in brackets?
#6
haha, sorry. i did buy the bolt in relocation brackets. better? haha. cool though guys, i appreciate the help. i'm going to go give it a shot pretty much right now, haha. i'll post back and let you guys know how it goes!
#7
just wanted to let you guys know that i got them in and it was a pretty straight forward job. thanks so much for everyone's help! took me about 20 mins of figuring out just how the relocation brackets went on but after that, i'd say it was about an hour job for me. took it for a quick drive afterward and i think i'm going to be pretty happy! thanks again for all your help!
#8
If in the future your having traction issues, you might want to look into an adjustable torque arm. With a lowered car, your pinion angle might be off. Plus you might want to check and see if the car is centered over the rearend. An adj. panhard bar might be needed also.
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