LT1 POWR

I just installed a lot of suspension components on my car and under extremely hard cornering or hard take-offs, the right rear tire rubs. All the pieces are adjustable, and I'm wondering if I can get away with just adjusting things and not having to use spacers.

Here is a list of everything I installed.

LG motor sport 4-point STB.
Strano hollow 35mm front and hollow 22mm rear sway bars.
Strano lightweight 1¼" lowering springs.
Koni SA shocks front and rear.
Spohn cross member mounted Torque arm with front drive shaft loop and custom x-brace.
SJM chromemoly PHB and LCA's.

So do I need to lengthen the PHB? How long should it be? I put everything to within stock specs, or as close as I could get it.

Also, will I have to roll the fender lips or get bumper jouce spacers so the fenders won't cut up my tires?

Any help would be appreciated.

dangalla

my buddy had a 01 t/a with the same situation. i pulled the tires of and it was pretty easy to see where it was rubbing, i just took a hammer and banged it back a bit

Edit: i also rolled the fenders up with a heat gun, pair of vice grips and a rag, heated the quarter panel with the heat gun, wrapped the rag around the jaws of the vice grips and worked very slow. no cracks or scratches in the paint and it worked perfect

Injuneer

Rubs the inside fender liner, or the fender lip?

Have you measured to see if the body is centered over the rear axle assembly?

Quickz1670

^^^Most likely both. Roll the lip and cut out the bumpstop section. It worked for me.

LT1 POWR

I think the fender lip on hard take offs, or large dips/bumps and the inner fender on hard cornering. Sounds like just the passenger side rear though.

I already performed the BFH mod, but I think it still might be rubbing in some spots, like where it can't be clearanced anymore.

Where do I measure from and what should it be? It should be equidistant from side to side, right? Can I measure from the center of the rear differential.

Sam Strano

DO NOT CUT OUT OR REMOVE THE BUMPSTOP. Injuneer had it right, ask where it's rubbing first, that will determine the need. Most likely rolling the lips and tweaking the PHB is all you'll need.

GreenDemon

The bumpstop shouldn't have to be completely removed. I cut it down to right next to the bolts and I have enough clearance that it never touches. Definitely roll the fender lip, it can cut into your tires on a lowered car. It should be fairly easy to see if there's any rubbing on the inside once you take the wheels off.

Sam Strano

The bumpstop doesn't need to be touched. Mine aren't, and I have 11's and 315's on my car.

Injuneer

The problem I had was the bump stop bracket projected inside the inner diameter of the wheels, and could catch the wheel or the sidewall of the tire if I jacked the car by the body, and allowed the axle to go to full drop.

tapout911

I have read several posts where people have cut the bumpstop off. Why is this a bad idea?

LT1 POWR

The bump stops stop your axle from slamming into your body when the suspension compresses too much.

I didn't want to cut them. I was asking if I should put a spacer on them to lower the bump stop. That way, if I did hit a big bump or the suspension compressed too much, it would hit the bump stop instead of having the tires rub. I know slp sells one, but it just sounds like a band aid instead of a fix. I guess I need to get it up in the air and do some measuring and adjusting.

mzgp5x

I have a 97ss with slp option bump stop. You don't need to buy. I did similar as Injuneer. I sliced the bump stop in 1/2 (sawzall) and remounted to a home fabricated piece. Had to do it for 315/ 35 R 17 clearance. Works fine. I also need and adj PHB to center body and rear wheel inside distance. This helped on hard cornering. The axel can easily jounce to the bumpstop since I have the slp "level 2" gm suspenstion option (lower about 1"). (97ss - 383 - D1) B.

GreenDemon

They usually touch when the suspension is unloaded (as on a lift). I suppose if you went over a hump in the road or something there could be a chance of contact while moving. It's mostly a minor annoyance, but I had a couple occasions on my 95 (it had 17x11s and 315s also) where I was in the parking lot working on it, and if you had it on jackstands and could only let one side down at a time, the other side would actually get stuck- It also made the wheels difficult to remove if it they got stuck on top of the bumpstop while putting the car up. When I got my 98 it already had 17x11 TT2s on it and I only saw minor evidence of touching, so I don't think it happens very often on the road (if at all). Of course, w/ certain offsets, it may not contact the bumpstop at all (but then you'll just be that much farther out the fenders).

mzgp5x

Prior to re-work of my 97 bumpstop, jacking the car on normal jackpoints would allow the 17x11 AFS zr1 wheels to contact the threaded fastener that held the stop. It would damage (bite-into) the inside of the wheel. I cut them out and moved them in. Great if you don't need to move them. It was a 3 day job. I also needed an adjustable pan-hard bar to center the car over the wheels for hard cornering with a road set-up. B.

Chewbacca

I will never understand why people have 315 fitment problems that only seem to be solvable by hacking some portion of the car.

I can jack my car anywhere I want and drive it however I wish. I experience no contact whatsoever with only the following:

1) Rolled rear fender lips
2) Appropriate thickness spacer
3) Longer studs to accommodate the spacer

It may require a bit of trial and error with spacer thickness and of course the rear must be centered but that's it.







No rubbing anywhere.