Bayer-Z28

I posted this here a while ago, but it didn't hit. But now I'm wondering what the common 4th gen brake problems are. Particularly to LS1 vehicles, but the LT1 ppl are welcome also...

My brakes are spongy. I've bleed and re-bled from RR, LR, RF, LF. I had an almost SCARY incident of brake fade the other day. Was hauling around my LONG SWEEPING turn off base (75-80mph), went to slow down to avoid rearending some slow mover, and it felt like the ABS kicked in But didn't pulseate. The brakes were minimally effective.

I noticed that these brakes kind of started sucking when I installed my hawk pads about 2 yeas ago. Is it a gas problem? Not venting? I'll be getting a new set of slotted rotors soon, and it's about time for new pads... I HOPE this helps. I also have stainless braided lines. Any ideas, Questions/comments/problems are welcomed!

slayerxxx213

From what I've heard out-gasing really isn't a problem with today's brake pads ...I can tell you though that my brakes definetly do fade and often times the pedal feel is not what I would call confidence inspiring...Most noticeably if I am in traffic and am constantly going gas to brakes they will fade and usually it happens pretty abrubtly...Then there's the noises...Last summer it was squealing that I noticed after slowing down real fast from 120 mph, this summer it's a creaking noise that they make periodically

CamaroRacing12

I am hating these brakes.... squeeks like a biatch..... have to take it apart and take a peek.....pain in the a$$ IMO

Bayer-Z28

^ a lot depends on what compound you have too.

Have the rotors roughed up a bit. Or you caould take some 80 grit to them. Probably just glazed.

IdahoLT1

The things i noticed was warped rotors and the car not slowing fast enough. Had to push them as hard as i could trying to go from 60-0 in 200ft. That was with the LT1 brakes though. Love the LS1 brakes in comparison.

RE AND CHERYL

ABS brakes can be hard to bleed properly. Did you bleed them at the ABS module? I would recomend having a shop pressure bleed the brakes. This is way more effective with newer cars with their more complex ABS systems than the old fashion pump the pedal method.

As stated above, outgasing is not a problem with todays pad compounds unless you are roadracing or maybe autocrossing, and then the effect is minimal. I doubt you will notice a difference with the drilled rotors other than they look cool.

Bayer-Z28

I'll look inot the ABS bleed thing..

As far as your rotor comment... There's soemthing up w/ these brakes. I was driving back from Wall Mart earlier, and the brakes almost did NOT work. I almost got scared. It was raining, but that shouldn't effect anything. The pressure was there, just no binding effect...

razor02097

Try reverse bleeding the brakes... a very common problem on motorcycles with duel calipers up front is the splitting block holds air and you can go through gallons of brake fluid and still have spongey brakes. This may hold true for the ABS module on our cars.

Heres what you do...

Take a feeding syringe (found in most medical supply stores and maybe pet stores)
they look like this...


Now take some small tubing to attach the syringe to the bleeder screw, and attach to the syringe.

Now fill the syringe with brake fluid out of the master cylinder (don't worry its gonna go back in soon... then open the bleeder screw on the caliper your bleeding.

attach the syringe tube to the bleeder nipple and SLOWLY push the brake fluid in the caliper. Air will rise in the system. Out the master cylinder. Since you got the fluid from the master cylinder you don't need to worry about overflow.

Repeat the reverse bleed a few times and make sure each time there is no air in the syringe top off the MC if needed.


I have RB brakes on motorcycles, cars, trucks with ABS or not it doesn't matter. Its as safe as pushing the piston in when you replace the brake pads and its a 1 man job No pumping required.

Severous01

new pads and have rotors surfaced or replaced. you could also get braided steel lines.

you're rotors are likely glazed over like mentioned above. there arent any recalls on the brakes, nor have i heard of this problem before...it's mostly the crappy pad selection. i'd either go with hawks which is what i use now (a lot of dust) or with the EBC green stuff (not so much dust but not as good a gripping power)

if you get "performance" rotors, stay away from drilled. slotted is fine because there arent and holes to crack or remove the weight from the heat sink.

Bayer-Z28

I have Hawk pads and braided lines. Getting slotted rotors soon. Also gonna need new pads too. If the Hawk pads stll do this after the install, i'll never get them again.

Severous01

do you have the option for the traction thingy??? you may need to bleed that too. brake fluid goes through a traction control device then to all 4 wheels. it's supposed to be either the first or last thing you need to bleed...i dont know because i dont have it.

Bayer-Z28

I just have a single line in the rear that tees off to each slave. I have ASR but I thought it was just throttle control... lessens throttle when you start to spin.

Severous01

the 4-wheel abs system is attached to all the wheels. the 3-series is attached in pairs...front/rear.