z0s0

Ok..I just got new tires/wheels (zr1's, beautiful), bilstein slp shocks and complete brake set. Had no problems with the rear end, which is completely done. When I pulled the first front wheel, I saw that my tie rod end, lower ball joint and bushings appeared to be in really poor condition (tie rod end boot is deteriorated, ball joint covers torn, control arm bushings look about the same, at least some of them). So I ordered all new ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings for the front end, and here's my problem. I got prothane urethane bushings, and they don't come with the outer metal steel sleeves, the directions say to reuse the existing ones. Looking at energy suspension, their urethane kit is the same way. From what I've read, it's near impossible to get the sleeves out without damaging them (mine appear to be rusted in there pretty good). So I'm concerned that when I pull them I'm going to be left with unusable metal sleeves and a new set of urethane bushings, which is no good..lol. So..

Is there a way to get those sleeves out so they can be cleaned up and reused?

Or is there a place that sells the metal sleeves?

If not, my only option may be to go with either the moog stock replacements or duralast (autozone), both of which use rubber bushings, but do come with the sleeves. Don't have much if any experience in this area but I'm surprised that you can't buy urethane bushings with the metal sleeves. They come with the inside metal grommet thingy, just not the sleeves. The tool I had planned on using to press out/press in the bushings:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Tool/_/N-26rb

Is that the appropriate tool to use, and would I be able to get the metal sleeves out with it, or does it just push out the rubber bushings themselves? Hoping to get going again this weekend but need to get this figured out first.

Thanks!

mzgp5x

I did an Energy front bushing replacement on a 97ss. Once you get the inside steel bolt bushing out (a little heat helps alot,but rubber stinks), then I used a hack-saw blade to section the rubber bushing for removal. Don't cut into the outer metal shell. Cleaned up the outer metal bushing reatainers (shell - inside dia.), lubed a bit, and pressed the Energy bushing in. Stock rubber bushings are very soft. Big impovment in corner peformance. B.

DirtyDaveW

I just got my energy suspension bushing kit for my own 96 Z28 and used the search engine to find this informative post. Thanks guys!

Injuneer

You can melt the entire rubber bushing out with a propane torch. No need to use a hacksaw. Plan to repaint the A-arms.

The Energy Suspension vertical lower A-arm bushing is a revised design, and requires that you fully remove the stock metal bushing "can" that sits in the A-arm. I was able to hammer it out, but that was when the car was only about 4 years old. You may have a bit more difficulty with a 15 year old part.

DirtyDaveW

THanks Injuneer. Will do.

UPDATE:
On those 'cans' that have to be removed, I cut out the rubber bushing with a sharp pointed knife. Then, I took my Dremel and used a carbide bit to cut a trench in one side of the can. Once the trench had 'just' breeched the thickness of the cans metal, I took a punch and ball peen and knocked one edge inward and that was enough to pull the tension off the rest of the 'can' and it fell right out. Thanks for the tips!

z0s0

Wow, what a pain in the **** this has been. I kind of expected it because I read some threads on the frozen bolt issue where the lower a arm rear bolt rusts to the inside bushing sleeve, my pass side was fine but the driver's side, beat on it with a sledge for a few hours, heated it with a torch for a few cycles, tightened/untightened and even lifted the car up with a floor jack by that bolt and it didn't budge. I ended up cutting out the bolt and have a new bolt on order... Now here's my two problems.

I cut the sleeve (had to) also in cutting out the bolt. This is the sleeve with a washer at each end that is inside the bushing. The bushing kit I have calls for reusing these...how do I get another? Do I have to buy a cheap autozone bushing and cut it apart for this part to use with my poly bushings?

On my other bushings where I was able to salvage these inside sleeves/washers..the washers appear to either be welded onto the ends of those sleeves, or pressed on very tightly from the years but it almost looks like little spot welds...how the hell am I supposed to get those washers off the end of the sleeve to get the poly bushings on?

DirtyDaveW

Hey there, I am in the midst of doing mine. I obtained a 2nd pair of stock lower control arms so I could do all the bushings/ball joints ahead of time, reducing down time.

The washers 'will' come off the tubes. Although the energy suspension directions will have you tap a blade screwdriver inside the tube to dislodge the washer, I did it a different way. To do it my way, you will have to 'ping' each side of the washer (multiple times) with a hammer while holding the tube. It's tight but it will come off. As far as replacement tubes/washers. I don't know what you're up against there. All this talk of rusted components has me gritting my teeth in anticipation. I looked under my car at that bolt and mine 'looks' okay(not rusted) but that's just the nut and exposed bolt. It sounds like you guys are saying it's the interior that's potentially rusted. Thanks for posting what you found.

z0s0

So...the solution, if you need new inner sleeves for anyone doing urethane bushings, using a kit where you need to reuse the existing hardware..is to just buy duralast (or equivalent) bushings, and press out the sleeves. They're only ten bucks each (the bushings). And yes...the washers do indeed come off the sleeves, after the first couple blows from a hammer/screwdriver, it shocks them loose and you just need to "walk" them off the end of the sleeve.

After a few days of hitting these a-arms with a wire wheel and sandpaper, then coating them with rustoleum primer and gloss black topcoat, I have to say they look pretty damn good. Certainly better than when they came off...lol. As fun as this has all been though, I don't think I was prepared for how much work was involved in pressing out/in bushings and ball joints. I'll never do it again...just too time consuming. New a-arms with all that crap installed already next time.

And as for that BLEEPIN vertical lower a-arm bolt that has a tendency to rust to the sleeve (google it), you can pound for days if you want, I lifted my car in the air with a floor jack on that bolt with no nut on it so you'll be pounding for awhile. I cut it with a sawzall and bought a new bolt for 10 bucks from gm parts east.