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Do I need an adj. torque arm or just a non-adj torque arm

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Old 02-24-2008, 06:21 PM
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Do I need an adj. torque arm or just a non-adj torque arm

I have looked everywhere to find out this answer. My question is, do I need an adj torque arm or will a non-adj torque arm work? Most things I have read, you want a -2 degree pinion angle, which most all non-adj torque arms come with. So to spend more money on a adj one that will get the same thing isn't worth it. So with my setup, am I back to the stock 0 degree pinion angle, and can just buy a non-adjustable torque arm. Or because of the lowering springs and anti squat brackets, I should get the adj torque arm?

I have the following;
BMR Fabrication 1" Lowering Springs
Kenny Brown Subframe Connectors
Spohn Performance Tubular Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
Spohn Performance Adjustable Tubular Panhard Bar
BMR Fabrication Anti-Squat Brackets
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:13 AM
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Since your car has been lowered, a non-adjustable TA set for -1* to -2* pinion angle on a stock ride height car may not match the geometry of your setup. Only way to tell would be to measure the current pinion angle, with the stock TA.

Since you indicate the engine is making 459 HP (flywheel, or rear wheel?), what kind of 60-fts are you pulling? If they are good, it would indicate the current setup is functioning well together, and may not need an adjustable pinion angle. Some people have managed to get into the low 11's, or even the 10's with a stock TA.
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:21 AM
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my best 60 ft has been 1.72 with an average of 1.75. I was thinking of taking the current pinion angle and seeing what it is now. I would assume that it is close to 0 degrees but I find out for sure.
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:55 AM
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Why not pay the little extra and get a adj. one? Every time you make a change to the car there's a possibility you changed the pinion angle. Light weight hood, move battery to the back, you get the idea.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:27 PM
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Like mentioned, if the car is lowered the non-adjustable setting will not longer be correct.

Get a adjustable, just to be safe. You can pick one up from UMI for $299
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:22 PM
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Agree with above. Especially if you are planning on ever doing any more mods.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Mentu13
my best 60 ft has been 1.72 with an average of 1.75. I was thinking of taking the current pinion angle and seeing what it is now. I would assume that it is close to 0 degrees but I find out for sure.
I checked out your web page, nice car!! Didn't see drag radials or slicks mentioned though. Are your 60ft. times on your street tires? With your stall and some sticky tires, I would think you could or should be cutting some low 1.6x's. How do you launch? Do you stall it up or flash the converter?
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:41 AM
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I use MT et streets when I race. What I do to launch is to just step on the throttle. I tried to stall up the converter to about 200 and on average, I was quicker not doing it. Flashing the converter, I don't know how to do that.
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:57 PM
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thats when you just kill it from idle or slightly higher, some will flash alot higher than others will
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mentu13
I use MT et streets when I race. What I do to launch is to just step on the throttle. I tried to stall up the converter to about 200 and on average, I was quicker not doing it. Flashing the converter, I don't know how to do that.
If your just nailing the gas pedal from idle, your flashing the converter. Works best for me too. I think you need a set of 3.73 gears as I don't see any mention of a gear change on your web page.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:54 AM
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I have the stock 3:23 gears. I have been flashing the converter and not knowing it.
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