Finally Finished LS1 Brake Upgrade - with pics!
#1
Finally Finished LS1 Brake Upgrade - with pics!
So, finally got around to upgrading to the LS1 front brakes. I've had the parts for a while, but been focusing on other stuff for the car. I can say that I feel a BIG difference now, but it's not fair to say it's just because of the LS1 brakes. Along with the front brakes, I also switched to SS lines front and back and well as flushed the brake fluid. Believe it or not, after 118,000 miles, finally flushed the brake fluid for the first time.
So the combo of larger 2 piston calipers, Baer rotors (yeah, yeah, some argue just eye candy), Earl's SS lines, and new brake fluid. It's a nice tight feeling with the car brakes now.
Here's the before/after pictures:
LT1 Brakes:
LS1 Brakes:
So the combo of larger 2 piston calipers, Baer rotors (yeah, yeah, some argue just eye candy), Earl's SS lines, and new brake fluid. It's a nice tight feeling with the car brakes now.
Here's the before/after pictures:
LT1 Brakes:
LS1 Brakes:
#3
I'm not big on x-drilled, but those Baer rotors are some of the heaviest so I wouldn't call them just eye candy. They have the mass to take the heat.
I'm w/lastZ. What pads and fluid did you go with?
I like the red calipers, but mine got dirty fast.
I'm w/lastZ. What pads and fluid did you go with?
I like the red calipers, but mine got dirty fast.
#4
Actually, I gathered all the parts, but gave it to my buddy who owns a shop with a few lifts to do the work.
I don't know what fluid he used...I didn't specify any special race fluid..my car is a DD.
But here's the parts I gave him:
- Used LS1 spindles that I got from someone on this board a while back...thank goodness, they weren't bent...that's my biggest fear.
- Earl's SS lines for LS1 (yes, the rear LS1 do fit for rear LT1)
- Powder coated LS1 calipers..some website that you can buy new calipers from. They're factory, they just powder coat them.
- Baer Eradispeed rotors..yeah, they're heavy as hell. Planning to upgrade the rear rotos sometime alter. Baer has some 1-piece Delecerator OE size rotors.
- Hawk HPS pads. I already had HPS on the rears and on the old LT1 fronts.
- New caliper bolts.
- New banjo bolts...I think LS1 banjo bolts are different from LT1, so couldn't re-use them.
I plan to do an alignment in the future. It's not too bad, but just pulls a tad to the right..hardly noticeable from before the LS1 swap. Any one else driving my car won't notice it, but I notice every little tweak in my ride.
I also plan to "bed" the pads after a few hundred miles, just to be sure. The brakes work fine right now, but don't want to take any chances with new rotors and pads.
I don't know what fluid he used...I didn't specify any special race fluid..my car is a DD.
But here's the parts I gave him:
- Used LS1 spindles that I got from someone on this board a while back...thank goodness, they weren't bent...that's my biggest fear.
- Earl's SS lines for LS1 (yes, the rear LS1 do fit for rear LT1)
- Powder coated LS1 calipers..some website that you can buy new calipers from. They're factory, they just powder coat them.
- Baer Eradispeed rotors..yeah, they're heavy as hell. Planning to upgrade the rear rotos sometime alter. Baer has some 1-piece Delecerator OE size rotors.
- Hawk HPS pads. I already had HPS on the rears and on the old LT1 fronts.
- New caliper bolts.
- New banjo bolts...I think LS1 banjo bolts are different from LT1, so couldn't re-use them.
I plan to do an alignment in the future. It's not too bad, but just pulls a tad to the right..hardly noticeable from before the LS1 swap. Any one else driving my car won't notice it, but I notice every little tweak in my ride.
I also plan to "bed" the pads after a few hundred miles, just to be sure. The brakes work fine right now, but don't want to take any chances with new rotors and pads.
#5
Nice set up. I like those Moda wheels too.
My care is a daily driver and I run ATE Superblue. I wouldn't call it a special race fluid, but it takes higher heat better dry and wet. It isn't a big deal, just don't wait another 118k miles before you change it though. For a street car, I try to change it every 12-18 months. Now if I ever get to the track again I'll change it prior.
My care is a daily driver and I run ATE Superblue. I wouldn't call it a special race fluid, but it takes higher heat better dry and wet. It isn't a big deal, just don't wait another 118k miles before you change it though. For a street car, I try to change it every 12-18 months. Now if I ever get to the track again I'll change it prior.
#8
Actually, if you believe all that hype which I don't, the way they are turned now would push stuff to the center.
In reality it doesn't really matter which way you install them unless you have directional vanes because the slots and holes are driveway jewelry.
In reality it doesn't really matter which way you install them unless you have directional vanes because the slots and holes are driveway jewelry.
#9
I did check the Baer install docs, the direction is right. But as Greed4Speed mention, the Baer folks say the proper direction is important because of the internal directional vanes need it this way to cool properly. I really don't think I drive my car hard enough to do all that rocket science about outgassing and stuff...I just like the brakes because chicks dig it!
#10
No rocket science needed. Outgassing is a gimick. Any good modern pad compound will not outgas.
Thats the thing about Baer over xdrilled blanks. They went the extra step and used directional vanes which will increase cooling.
Thats the thing about Baer over xdrilled blanks. They went the extra step and used directional vanes which will increase cooling.
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