TobyZ28

I have a new steering rack i'd like to put in (the cause of my play in the steering). I'm having a hard time finding any write ups for doing this on the LT1 and was wondering if anyone has tried to do the job themselves.

Having never done this before, I'm kina wanting to know what steps i need to take to do the job right the first time Is this a hard job?

96z28t56

2 bolts on the bottom, two lines, and the bolt that connects the coloum to the rack. Pretty simple, just takes a little bit of time.

white97T/A

you might want to look into getting a rag joint eliminator.. the "rag joint" is a common source of play in the steering on 4th gens... your steering rack may be fine.

km9v

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

TobyZ28

Already eliminated the rag joint as the source, mine has zero rag joint play (im still stock though) I was able to compare it to my friends car who does have play in his, because of the rag joint. It was very easy to see mine was because of the R&P

TobyZ28

How about the rod ends? Do i need to mark anything so i have a somewhat straightish driving car on the way to the aligntment shop? Are there any other things that need to be removed in order to get at any of those parts?

Also how about power steering fluid, is there a procedure to properly fill it up? I recall seeing a flush procedure somewhere but cant recall where

Regarding the bolt that goes to the column, will the column just slide up and out of it easily? Or do i need to remove/loosen stuff around where the rag joint is to get it to slide out (I remember having to messaround with that part when i was having clearance problems with the headers and steering column)
Its actually the bolt in on the far right in this picture: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com...alled_kit.html

shoebox

My Tech Page has flush and fill info.

96z28t56

Just un screw the tie rod ends and keep them for the new rack, unless it come's with new ones. I wouldn't put any tires that you like on there when your driving it to get aligned. The bolts have a nut on top of them that you have to hold as your untighting them, to get to the bolt on the rack you have to remove a plastic guard, takes about 10 seconds, then undo the bolt and the coulum will slide off. Another thing, i found its alot easier to put the colum bolt on first before the 2 main bolts when re-installing. Hope this helps

meengreen 94z

Just fill the reservoir to the top and then start the engine. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock(with tires under a load) about 5-6 times, while topping off the fluid as needed. Not difficult.

OBE1 95Z28

The GM Service Manual calls for turning the steering wheel lock to lock 20 times, not under load (jack up the front of the car).

shoebox

...as it says on my website.

SS1156

Not to hijack, but how well does your car drive with rag joint eliminated? My car has a little play in the wheel too. I'm gonna do inner and outer tie rods first, but was interested in these, especially for $36.00.

TobyZ28

I still have my rag joint, I eliminated it from the equation because i was able to move the steering wheel side to side while looking at the rag joint and the joint wasn't moving a bit I'm curious too if anyone has some positive feedback on rag joints. I've heard they're a saftey feature though, to prevent the steering column from impaling the passenger or something...

OBE1 95Z28

I've heard they're a saftey feature though, to prevent the steering column from impaling the passenger or something...[/QUOTE]

The rag joint doesn't factor into impaling; it reduces road vibrations. Road vibrations didn't seem any harsher when I when with a rag joint eliminator.

BlownF1

The only way a passenger would get impaled by the steering column is if she's sitting on the drivers lap and causes an accident!

I have one of the Unbalanced Engineering units in my car and like it. It feels much more responsive and firm. No negative issues at all for me.