pHEnomIC

I may have some frame tweaking from jumping a curb a long time ago. I was able to get it aligned but my steering wheel isnt turned straight. Its about 50* off.
I havebeen driving for months with no abnormal wear but I was wondering how much it would cost to get my wheel straightened. It is posisble that my frame is tweaked slightly or my steering knuckle and tie rod were bad. The guys at the shop said i didn't have to do anything unless iwanted my wheel straight.

Any ideas on how much this framework would cost, i bet its something minor because there really wasn't anything else wrong.

Greed4Speed

Sounds like whoever did the alignment didn't want to set the wheel straight.

Z28barnett

If you suspect the knuckle you should replace it first, and check the upper control arm. Since the upper control arm is stamped metal you should be able to see any major bends in it. The knuckle is hard to check due to the odd shape.

Simple metal straight edge should be useable to check the tie rod , just hold it along the tie rod. You shold not see any bends in the rod.

The frame would have to be pretty wildly bent to need a 50 degree correction from the steering wheel.

I would replace the knuckle and try to get the car aligned again. The knuckle is about $100.00 or so new from GMPD.

No point in bending the frame to try and match a bent knuckle.

I would also look for a better shop, if they couldn't get the wheel straight they should have told you why, not just live with it.

Z28

pHEnomIC

Thanks for the good explanation, hard to find someone who know what they are tlaking about. BTw, forgot to include that my lca was definentally tweaked a little so i changed it before i got the alignment. I was looking at my kmember today and it looks like one of the screws slid over. As in, it looks like the washer slid over a cm. It is those holes that are oval shaped so i guess it can move but is it bad for it to move, should i unbolt the kmember and try to put it where the thing came from? It is possible that it is just me and it didnt move.

respectirocz

removing and reinstalling the k-member is pretty straight forward so if u can jack up the engine, (dont have to pull it out) u can drop the crossmember and inspect their mounting points

if the mounting points on the frame rails are ovaled, well, good job, u did a nasty number on that car, if the holes in the crossmember are ovaled than the cross member should be replaced

is this a 3rd gen or a 4th gen?
i have a 3rd gen and just installed a tubular k-member, i have no use for my old one and am willing to part

Z28barnett

You don't need to unbolt the k-member.

You need to get the correct terminology down. Or you will get bad advice.

The K-Member is bolted and pinned to the body. The K-member bolts are vertical and point to the sky if you are laying under the car. They do not adjust and you are wasting your time if you are messing with them.

The LCA bolts do go through oval slots, the rear bolt is vertical and the front is horizontal. These attach the LCA and are the adjustment for your caster and camber. If you slide them you will ruin the aligment that you just paid for. The front LCA bolt controls the camber and the rear controls the caster.

The LCA bolts can slip and should be torqued down to 80-90 ft*lbs I use 100 to be safe.

You should run, not walk, and get a shop manual for your car.

If the LCA was bent the knuckle is very suspect. I can think of no good way to check it other than replace it and get a new alignment.

Z28