always faster

Well im against the grain here because the majority of you like drag racing wich i dont hate but im more in road race or auto-x event

I was creating a list of my handling/chassis mods and saw that i didnt have lca relocation brackets(yeah i know im getting lost with all the parts that i ve put on the bird )

So i know from the *search* fonction that even on a non lowered car the lca relaction brackets are a *must have* parts if you want traction at the drag strip.

But are they worth it on a corner carving machine?
and
Since i attack very aggressive curve would the brackets make some clearance issue and make my lca rub or knock somewhere?

Quick list of my handling/chassis parts:
-Welded sfc
-Stranos Hollow sway bar kit(35/22 with poly bushing)
-Koni Sa shocks on stock spring(no need to lower it)
-Umi C5 brake kit with braided lines and hawks hps(4 corners)
-Umi Tubular K-member(road race version)*not installed yet*
-Umi Tubular A-arm(upper and lower)*not installed yet*
-Umi Full lenght TA(ditch the spohn chassis mount,way to noisy)
-Umi Tranny crossmember with TA mounting relcoation
-Umi Tubular Adj Lca
-Umi Tubular Adj Panhard rod
-Umi Tubular Panhard relocation kit
-285/35zr18 with 18X9.5 black zr1 on all corner
AND ALL THOSE PARTS ARE RED
(except the wheel and tires lol)

Thanks

JakeRobb

I'm under the impression that they will help keep the rear end planted any time you're accelerating, regardless of whether you're turning too.

I'm interested to hear what anyone else has to say on the subject.

always faster

Yeah me too i ve read a lot of thread while doing some search but all where related to drag racing.

Bud M

Relocation brackets won't make the LCAs rub. You want the LCAs to be pretty much level for your application. With stock springs they may not be necessary, but I think you will want stiffer springs than stock to make the car more stable. With Hotchkis springs and BMR bolt on relocation brackets my LCAs are pretty much level (within 1 degree) in the center hole of the bracket.

hotpart

If your arms are currently parallel with the ground I would not use them. Having too much downward angle from the chassis to the axle can cause roll-steer which will make the car more unstable and harder to drive hard around a corner.

always faster

Well i ve maid some research and create a thread on frrax.com and i found the answer.Remember that all these info are base on a car used in auto-x/autocross/road circuit and corner carving street machine.Not for drag car.

I quote some info that i receive:

*******Since the car is not lowered I don't think you would want to use the relocation brackets. Lowering the rear end of the LCAs will increase anti-squat, which helps with "hooking up", but it also induces "roll oversteer". As you go go into a turn, the car will roll, which will cause the axle to steer the tail toward the outside of the turn, which makes the car roll more, etc. This is "positive feedback" (like a PA feeding back) which is unstable and undesirable, and can lead to spinning out.

Lowering the car without using relocation brackets causes the opposite situation, by lowering the front end of the LCAs. As the cars rolls in a turn, the axle will steer the tail toward the inside of the turn, inducing "roll understeer". This is "negative feedback", and while it will require you to turn the steering wheel a little farther, it's also stable, and desirable in moderation. It does contribute to some tire rubbing problems when the car is lowered a lot and cornering very hard (on race tires, with far more grip than street tires can produce). Many of us get by just fine with this condition due to class rules that prevent correcting it.

By the way, the terminology can be confusing. Understeer means the front tires are slipping more than the rear tires (aka "push" or "tight"). Oversteer means the opposite: the rear tires are slipping more (aka "loose"). Roll understeer and roll oversteer are completely different phenomena with unfortunate names.

Roll steering refers to geometry changes as the car rolls. In roll understeer, the LCA pulls the outboard end of the axle forward in roll. In roll oversteer, the LCA pulls the inboard end of the axle forward. The effective horizontal length of the LCA = actual length * cosine(angle from horizontal). So, the effective horizontal length of the LCAs changes constantly. If the LCAs are horizontal at rest, then as the car rolls both LCA effective lengths will change by roughly the same amount, and there will be no roll steer. If there is a difference in the effective horizontal lengths as the car rolls, there will be roll steer.*******

*******I installed relocation brackets on my lowered LT1 car, used them once and never again. I can't say I noticed any difference in traction out of slower corners but the car was decidedly less stable in high speed ones. I have good front end camber and reasonable front end grip so a little roll understeer at the back is not a big issue and allows for some very aggresive throttle inputs. Roll oversteer which you will get with a stock ride height car and using lowering brackets is definitely to be avoided (although I suppose it could be ok for rapid rotation on a tight autocross course)*******


Then i ve decided to order some Stranos spring and here are the answer even on lowered car:

*******You certainly don't need or want relocation brackets at stock height. Strano's springs give a moderate/reasonable drop. Even the upper hole on most relocation brackets is too low. The ideal situation would be to keep the LCAs level when you lower the car. Achieving that typically requires a hole right on the weld line between the stock bracket and the extension. Some here have filled and ground that seam flat enough to allow drilling extra holes, so it can be done.

However, while keeping the LCAs level is ideal, it's still better to err on the side of roll understeer if you can't get them level. In other words, even after lowering the car, you're still better off with the rear end of the LCA too high instead of too low. Getting it "right" will require some fabrication work.

Many (probably most) of us drive lowered cars without relocation brackets*******