slayer6x6

Can someone please expain to me how going to aftermarket lower control arms in the rear can improve traction. Also, would you guys recommend the box type, or the tubular type. I found a tubular type with grease fittings on them that looked pretty nice. Thanks!

97FormulaWS-6

Honestly I don't know why it does, it could have something to do with the flex in the stockers Vs the stiffer aftermarket ones...

All I know is I replaced both my PHR and LCAs with Billet Aluminum ones, with Heim joints... and the car handles UNBELIEVEABLY now... no more tire spin and wheel hop issues, and she STICKS to the corners now like glue. I also replaced the TA with a BMR unit at the same time so that could be helping as well.

Red96Lt1

You got it!

Norm Peterson

More accurate axle location improves the handling and the zero compliance (no squishiness like OE bushings) means that any hop has that many fewer places to get started from.

Arm flex is a non-issue for anything short of really serious dragstrip performance capability.

Norm

Steve in Seattle

straight line? boxed... maybe even billet bar if you want zero deflection.

street use or cornering? stock... unless you're going with rod ends, then you're probably better off with tubular.

Boxing in the LCA's and putting in poly bushings are just great ways to introduce binding on hard corners. There are way better ways to spend your money before going here. If you're looking to replace worn-out bushings in your stock units, get the 1LE bushings and press them in. Otherwise look to rod-ends and expect a lot more noise (but excellent axle placement ).

rncotton

I don't know how it works, but after the 4.11 rear went in I couldn't get traction on street tires. After installed boxed LCA's with poly bushings, my 60' times dropped from 2.1 to 1.9

Norm Peterson

The LCA's that you removed were OE complete with the OE rubber bushings, right?

The whole point is that it's the OE bushing compliance (squish, whatever) that lets the bad things get started, especially for a car in the 2.0 sixty-foot range.

Norm

slayer6x6

I ask because I put 4.10s in and now 1st gear is useless. (fun but useless ) I just ordered a tubular set from ebay. I guess I should have waited for the reply for the boxed ones. Oh well, Im sure the tubular ones will help a little.

97FormulaWS-6

Well, with my 3.73's I have to really TRY to get my car to break loose now... it's not just a little extra pressure like it was before I beefed the suspension... now it's a slam at 4k+ to get it to break loose ater a rolling start...

RedHardSupra

Get good aluminium rod end ones. I got BMR rubber/poly ones and they sqeuak like a pig at slaughter when cornering.

bdc95ta

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/L...minumLCAs.html
I have one of these made so far as I somehow forgot to order FOUR hex lock nuts instead of 2. I thought these were pretty cool the Qa1 rod ends will last unlike some of the aftermarket ones that raddle like your draging tin cans. And there also lighter than the aftermarket!
-b

"White Knight"

can someone explain rod type ends to me. the rod end doesn't slide back and forth does it? Does the LCA stay right in the middle and only turn up and down? No side to side movement? I just wondered if the whole thing moves (cylinder part through the eye) and rubs against the braket on the car--seems like it would scrape the inside of the braket and make it weaker. What are these Heim joints?

Ucantcme57

Here are the ones I used...

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1295

Some of the best products I have seen get the relocation brackets too..