LetMeBurnU

LCA is this a good mod? Will this just bolt on and go or do i need any modifications like.........car needs to be lowered, need new relocation brackets for the LCA, or anything i need to modify to install this??
And also........im also looking into the PHB, what's the difference between the adjustable and non-adjustable?? Any inputs?

Steve in Seattle

1) LCA's are not the place to start... little to no gain.

2) rod-end PHR's will help with corning (I swear I can feel the difference, but it may be psycological... you need to push the stock bar pretty hard before it starts flexing a lot).

I'd start with a 35mm front bar, a STB, Sub-frame connectors, and a call to Sam Strato for the sway bar and shocks.

Red96Lt1

I strongly disagree. My LCA's were my first suspension mod and I noticed a dramatic increase in traction. I think the PHB is a waste though. I would get a front sway bar if you wanted better cornering. PHB and rear sway bars are going to be my last suspension mods.

Somnambulist

don't get n adjustable PHB unless you lower your car. if you don't lower your car I'd pick up a non-adjustable PHB...but it definitely wouldn't be the first or second suspension aftermarket addition...

Injuneer

Which suspension mods will help the most will depend on the type of driving you give priority to..... straight-line 1/4-mile jaunts, vigrorous street driving with high cornering loads, or a balance of the two.

That's why you are getting a wide range of answers - evreyone assumes your priorities are the same as theirs.

bruecksteve

Exactly. What is it you want to do with your car?

LetMeBurnU

Straight line traction and a little bit of cornering. STB, i got that. Tubular subframes will be next, I was just browsing what to get after the SFC.
Does my car need to be lowered or do i need new relocation brackets for the LCA..?
And if decide to go with non-adjustable PHB and i lower my car later on will that still work?

Norm Peterson

Question: Your text "new relocation brackets" implies that you already have relocation brackets. If so, and they aren't broken, why would they be candidates for replacement?

If you're primarily a straight-liner, you get relo brackets to increase the anti-squat (helps you launch). You don't then lower the car, as all that manages to accomplish in straight-ahead acceleration is to give away the increase in anti-squat that you just spent time and $ to get - along with reducing the weight transfer onto the rear tires (which would be a lose-lose proposition at the strip). Just don't drive like an idiot around the curves in the rain, as this arrangement tends to make the car "loose" at the limit.

If you're into cornering, you install the relo brackets because you are lowering the car. Not the other way around. In this case, the relo brackets keep the car from understeering too heavily when you're hustling it around the corners as well as more-or-less retaining the OE amount of anti-squat. The understeer (and the oversteer in the strip setup above) is a rear axle roll steer issue, and is tied to the inclination of the LCA's as seen in side view.

You sound like you're somewhere in between those two extremes, so the best overall setup for you might well be relo brackets with only a mild amount of lowering. You'd get somewhat more anti-squat without the full dose of vehicle roll oversteer. Yes, you'd probably have to experiment a little with rear ride height (trimming or shimming stock-type springs or stepping up to coil-overs). Cost no object, the c/o approach would be easier to work with, and in theory would allow you to establish one optimum ride height for the strip and another for your daily driving and cornering.

Norm

Red96Lt1

I would say sway bar and LCA's Good bang for the buck.