Lowered F-bodies (daily driven or nearly daily) - Chime In
12-05-2006, 08:55 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 152
12-06-2006, 06:00 AM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: NYC, NY
Posts: 776
I'm running coilovers and gfx, my y-pipe sits about 3 inches off the ground. I didn't have any problems in Dallas and the surrounding areas, provided I didn't go romping full speed into speed bumps, severe angles need to be taken at an angle. I'm in NY now with stiffer springs and shocks, same height and I still don't have much of any problems. As commented before, drive intelligently and you'll be fine.
Here is another warning, I cannot stress this enough, do not put lowering springs on the car without shocks. Quite frankly the stock shocks aren't even good enough for the stock springs.
As for the other question. Many years ago, when I was new to this hobby I threw on some lowering springs and take off decarbons from SLP. They had roughly 50 miles on them. The car bounced everywhere and the shocks were leaking fluid (blown) within 6 months.
Here is another warning, I cannot stress this enough, do not put lowering springs on the car without shocks. Quite frankly the stock shocks aren't even good enough for the stock springs.
As for the other question. Many years ago, when I was new to this hobby I threw on some lowering springs and take off decarbons from SLP. They had roughly 50 miles on them. The car bounced everywhere and the shocks were leaking fluid (blown) within 6 months.
12-06-2006, 10:31 AM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 382
Here is another warning, I cannot stress this enough, do not put lowering springs on the car without shocks. Quite frankly the stock shocks aren't even good enough for the stock springs.
As for the other question. Many years ago, when I was new to this hobby I threw on some lowering springs and take off decarbons from SLP. They had roughly 50 miles on them. The car bounced everywhere and the shocks were leaking fluid (blown) within 6 months.
As for the other question. Many years ago, when I was new to this hobby I threw on some lowering springs and take off decarbons from SLP. They had roughly 50 miles on them. The car bounced everywhere and the shocks were leaking fluid (blown) within 6 months.
Bought my '99 used. It came with just about everything suspension wise, except shocks ... take-off deCarbonsj w/G2 springs. Not unsafe or anything, fine on smooth & moderate roads obviously, but they make for a terrible ride in combination with the other mods to my car on anything but smooth roads.
I sit low too, just over 3 inches to the bottom of the boxed subframe connectors. The subframe connectors have protected me on speed bumps, even at low speeds. The first week I had the car, I broke an exhaust hanger on the cat back going over a speed bump ... very slow. The subframe connectors reduce ground clearance slightly more than the exhaust, but without them, I think I would need to tuck the exhaust closer to the body.
That being said, even my wife (not a car girl) comments on how good it looks.
12-06-2006, 12:34 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: BC
Posts: 2,325
1" drop hotchkis Shocks and Springs 
Car will not scrape on most normal speed bumps, but i do have to be careful on the bigger "humps"
The most common issue i have is really just steep driveways, have to take them at an angle... if your paying attention you should be fine, but i could see someone whos not used to the car easily doing a "nosedive" into a sharp grade :/
Handling is now night and day (with swaybars too) compared to before.
Car will not scrape on most normal speed bumps, but i do have to be careful on the bigger "humps"
The most common issue i have is really just steep driveways, have to take them at an angle... if your paying attention you should be fine, but i could see someone whos not used to the car easily doing a "nosedive" into a sharp grade :/
Handling is now night and day (with swaybars too) compared to before.
12-06-2006, 01:15 PM
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charleston, WV, U.S.
Posts: 1,084
Sounds like I really need a shock upgrade, this thing does ride pretty poorly with the stock decarbons and Pro Kit, I guess I thought a stiffer shock would make it worse but maybe not (less bounce).
How tough of a job is this on the front end?...I've never done it. I know the rear should be easy.
I'd like a good compromise shock or maybe something adjustable if it's easy to get to the adjustment. Compromise meaning good all around for dragging, turning, decent ride ..... ...decent price would be nice too ....
How tough of a job is this on the front end?...I've never done it. I know the rear should be easy.
I'd like a good compromise shock or maybe something adjustable if it's easy to get to the adjustment. Compromise meaning good all around for dragging, turning, decent ride ..... ...decent price would be nice too ....
12-06-2006, 01:18 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: BC
Posts: 2,325
if your replacing springs you might as well replace the shocks at the same time. Its pretty much the same work to replace a spring as it is to replace the spring and shock (for the fronts). Back shocks and springs are a joke
Call sam up. You can go with Koni single or double adjustables, they are pricey though but apparently one of the best.
I just got revalved bilsteins so they match my spring rates.
Call sam up. You can go with Koni single or double adjustables, they are pricey though but apparently one of the best.
I just got revalved bilsteins so they match my spring rates.
12-06-2006, 07:25 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2,915
Sounds like I really need a shock upgrade, this thing does ride pretty poorly with the stock decarbons and Pro Kit, I guess I thought a stiffer shock would make it worse but maybe not (less bounce).
How tough of a job is this on the front end?...I've never done it. I know the rear should be easy.
I'd like a good compromise shock or maybe something adjustable if it's easy to get to the adjustment. Compromise meaning good all around for dragging, turning, decent ride ..... ...decent price would be nice too ....
How tough of a job is this on the front end?...I've never done it. I know the rear should be easy.
I'd like a good compromise shock or maybe something adjustable if it's easy to get to the adjustment. Compromise meaning good all around for dragging, turning, decent ride ..... ...decent price would be nice too ....
The front end spring swap is not really easy. The top shock nuts will likely be rusted into the upper shock mount. You will need a spring compressor and probably an impact wrench. Do a search and you will probably turn up enough info to decide whether this is a job you can tackle yourself.
12-07-2006, 03:33 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charleston, WV, U.S.
Posts: 1,084
A shock tuned for a stiffer spring won't be stiffer on compression, it will be stiffer on rebound. That's how it controls a higher spring rate.
The front end spring swap is not really easy. The top shock nuts will likely be rusted into the upper shock mount. You will need a spring compressor and probably an impact wrench. Do a search and you will probably turn up enough info to decide whether this is a job you can tackle yourself.
The front end spring swap is not really easy. The top shock nuts will likely be rusted into the upper shock mount. You will need a spring compressor and probably an impact wrench. Do a search and you will probably turn up enough info to decide whether this is a job you can tackle yourself.
Thanks. What's a good reasonably priced shock to match this Pro Kit that would just be a good all around performing shock IYO?
12-08-2006, 12:53 AM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 79
Somebody earlier was asking what I meant by "undriveable"...just that. With the stock deCarbon shocks, and a set of lowering springs, the car bottomed out on virtually every road imperfection (man hole covers, railroad tracks etc.) It was insane. Looked ok, but I absolutely hated the way it drove. With the SLP package, it may not be as low as some like, but it has a good ride quality, and doesnt have the 4X4 look the stockers have. I'm very satisfied with the Level 2 package.
12-12-2006, 10:14 AM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: NYC, NY
Posts: 776
From what you've said I'm going to assume you want what the average guy wants, a slightly better handling car that's a bit lower. You really don't need to go the extent of the Konis and I would wager that Sam would tell you the same thing if you gave him a call. I would grab a set of his springs and some of his revalved Bilsteins and call it a day. If you have a little bit extra money throwing on some sway bars will make a huge difference too. Shocks, springs and sway bars will make the biggest difference, period.
Put aside 30 minutes and give him a call. He'll talk with you for a bit about your car, and he'll explain why he suggests what and why he doesn't suggest other options. He'll even tell you if he thinks the more expensive option is overkill for your goals.
Put aside 30 minutes and give him a call. He'll talk with you for a bit about your car, and he'll explain why he suggests what and why he doesn't suggest other options. He'll even tell you if he thinks the more expensive option is overkill for your goals.
12-20-2006, 07:31 AM
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 13
Just my two cents, I put Air Ride Technologies' LevelPro kit on my '96 T/A. It's expensive and not for everyone, but I love it. It only dropped ride height about 1" (can go lower but I like the ride at that level), and if I come to a bump or roadkill or whatever, I can raise the car at the touch of a button. Installation easy, ride is good, handling is great.
I haven't personally talked to Mr. Strano, but from reading his posts, he sounds like he could really help you find a good, affordable solution.
I haven't personally talked to Mr. Strano, but from reading his posts, he sounds like he could really help you find a good, affordable solution.
12-21-2006, 02:51 PM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
My Z is lowered 3/4 of an inch. Other than a few scrapes from the air dam on high speed bumps and some steep driveways, it doesn't really scrape anything.
My Formula (also currently for sale if anyone is interested) is lowered 1 inch, and scrapes about the same as my Z, if not just a hair more.
In either case, in order to scrape more than the air dam, you'll have to be going pretty fast or hit a high speed bump or go through a decent sized pot hole in order to scrape more than the air dam.
12-31-2006, 07:32 AM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 111
hey guys i just lower my 97 Z with coilovers and love it. there are a few options you have as far as ride height. if you dont know how low you want to go you can always go to a adjustable setup. i dont know what you are wanting to spend but there are a couple of opptions you could go with. (1) ground control coilovers which the make diffrent kits of coilovers so you can run billsten shocks or (2) airride technoligies offers a kit (alot more expensive but you cant beat the ride qaulity and the ajustability from the driver seat.) well just a couple of sujestions good luck with it.
01-01-2007, 03:07 PM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
I have the adjustables on my Z as well, and being able to change the height is nice. However before committing to them, you need to know that with each change in height, you will need to get a new alignment, which is a BIG PITA!
