LT1 => LS1 Brake Swap: Notes from the field
#1
LT1 => LS1 Brake Swap: Notes from the field
My '96 Z28's brakes where starting to vibrate (and REALLY sucked in the rain), so I decided to do the LS1 swap rather than just replace what I have. My front brakes were all original (70K).
I found an LS1 setup on ebay for about 180 shipped. One of the boots on one of the calipers was ripped, so I put new seals and dust boots in both calipers. I reused my hubs because I know they work and guessed they might even have fewer miles on them than what came with the eBay setup.
I bought new Brembo x-drilled rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads. I realized after the fact, that the general consesus is to use the blanks, but its what I got and I can't imagine I'll be disappointed, based on what I had before.
I had a little trouble getting the knuckles separated from the lower ball joints until I realized that the wheel/hub puller in one of my tool drawers worked like champ. A must have tool for sure.
My BIGGEST problem during the whole project: finding steering knuckles that haven't been tweeked. The drivers side that I got from eBay: WAY too much negative camber and a twisted tie rod arm. The driver's side I got from a local junkyard: WAY too much postive camber. The second drivers side I got from a local junkyard: just about right....but not sure yet. Actually, I'm not sure of either spindle/knuckle.
Note to potential LS1 brake swappers: If you value your time, just buy new steering knuckles. About $180/pc shipped from gmpartsdirect. Maybe cheaper elsewhere?
I got it back together and it looks pretty close, but DEFINITELY needs an alignment.
Question: If you were to take a pristine LT1 car (never driven; right off the factory line) and swap in brand new LS1 spindles, would it be correctly aligned?
If the answer is yes, then I still have something that is tweaked. The steering wheel is off by about 20 degrees when traveling in a straight line (was straight before), but the car does not pull. The camber looks a little too positive on both sides as well, but not by much. Anyway, I think it is close enough so it will align. We will find out when my alignment is done.
I took the car for a very short spin, and I must say that the brakes are "all there"! Can't wait to get it aligned so I can take her for a beatin'!
Thanks to all of the board members who have posted meaningful content! There is alot here that is just a click of the search button away!
BTW, I have knuckles (my car drove straight and was nice to its tires!), calipers, and rotors that would probably still turn from a '96 z28, and hubs from a 98+ that I don't need anymore if anyone is interested. PM me with a reasonable offer.
I found an LS1 setup on ebay for about 180 shipped. One of the boots on one of the calipers was ripped, so I put new seals and dust boots in both calipers. I reused my hubs because I know they work and guessed they might even have fewer miles on them than what came with the eBay setup.
I bought new Brembo x-drilled rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads. I realized after the fact, that the general consesus is to use the blanks, but its what I got and I can't imagine I'll be disappointed, based on what I had before.
I had a little trouble getting the knuckles separated from the lower ball joints until I realized that the wheel/hub puller in one of my tool drawers worked like champ. A must have tool for sure.
My BIGGEST problem during the whole project: finding steering knuckles that haven't been tweeked. The drivers side that I got from eBay: WAY too much negative camber and a twisted tie rod arm. The driver's side I got from a local junkyard: WAY too much postive camber. The second drivers side I got from a local junkyard: just about right....but not sure yet. Actually, I'm not sure of either spindle/knuckle.
Note to potential LS1 brake swappers: If you value your time, just buy new steering knuckles. About $180/pc shipped from gmpartsdirect. Maybe cheaper elsewhere?
I got it back together and it looks pretty close, but DEFINITELY needs an alignment.
Question: If you were to take a pristine LT1 car (never driven; right off the factory line) and swap in brand new LS1 spindles, would it be correctly aligned?
If the answer is yes, then I still have something that is tweaked. The steering wheel is off by about 20 degrees when traveling in a straight line (was straight before), but the car does not pull. The camber looks a little too positive on both sides as well, but not by much. Anyway, I think it is close enough so it will align. We will find out when my alignment is done.
I took the car for a very short spin, and I must say that the brakes are "all there"! Can't wait to get it aligned so I can take her for a beatin'!
Thanks to all of the board members who have posted meaningful content! There is alot here that is just a click of the search button away!
BTW, I have knuckles (my car drove straight and was nice to its tires!), calipers, and rotors that would probably still turn from a '96 z28, and hubs from a 98+ that I don't need anymore if anyone is interested. PM me with a reasonable offer.
#2
Re: LT1 => LS1 Brake Swap: Notes from the field
Just an update...
The car was off alot (3 degress of camber on one side and quite a bit of toe-in), but did align, so I's a happy camper. Brakes are incredibly improved. My only complaint is that the Hawk HP+ pads do produce quite a bit of dust on the wheels, but I can live with it considering the much improved braking.
Something I hadn't thought of: will the spare thats included with a 96 fit over the 98+ brakes?
The car was off alot (3 degress of camber on one side and quite a bit of toe-in), but did align, so I's a happy camper. Brakes are incredibly improved. My only complaint is that the Hawk HP+ pads do produce quite a bit of dust on the wheels, but I can live with it considering the much improved braking.
Something I hadn't thought of: will the spare thats included with a 96 fit over the 98+ brakes?
#3
Re: LT1 => LS1 Brake Swap: Notes from the field
The spare will not fit. I went to a junk yard and got one from a later model. If you had to you could put the spare on a rear wheel and move a rear wheel to the front if you get a flat.
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