lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
#2
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
NEED:
98+ Spindles
Callipers (with brackets)
Rotors
Pads
OPTIONAL:
Hubs (you could use your old ones but they may not come off and you might mess them up)
Brake lines (not sure which lines fit because mine are not installed)
Paint + Vynel (if you want it to look awesome
)
98+ Spindles
Callipers (with brackets)
Rotors
Pads
OPTIONAL:
Hubs (you could use your old ones but they may not come off and you might mess them up)
Brake lines (not sure which lines fit because mine are not installed)
Paint + Vynel (if you want it to look awesome
![Wink](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#5
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
Originally Posted by MC'SZ28
Thanks a lot so pretty much spindles and calapers i can reuse the brakes lines from the lt1
Cool
Brian
Cool
Brian
![Bow](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/bow.gif)
#7
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28
I dont think you can reuse the LT1 brake lines 'cos they're shorter than the LS1 lines. The difference in stopping power was like WHOA!!!! I love them! ![Bow](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/bow.gif)
![Bow](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/bow.gif)
#8
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
Originally Posted by gt_biker13
Ill find out in a couple of weeks when i fineally get everything together. Allready ordered some Russell stainless steel braided brake lines.
#9
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
Originally Posted by Z95m6
Just get some LS1 lines i know they work and you can get used rubber ones for next to nothing.
#11
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
Originally Posted by MachinistOne
Brakes are something you do not want to cut corners on, buy NEW lines.
#12
Re: lt1 2 ls1 brakes?
I just recently did the LS1 front brake conversion.
I bought new OE rubber lines, because I couldn't locate braided stainless lines for just the front. Everyone that sells the braided lines, sells them in complete 'whole car' sets. I didn't want to have to buy one set for the LS1 fronts and one set for the LT1 rears.
The OE LS1 brake hoses connect different than my stockers, and were SHORTER than my stock ones. The hoses would NOT mount in the brackets that bolt to the car without binding when I turned the wheel. I think the LS1 uses a different set of hard lines, changing where the hoses couple in the wheel well.
The easy way to get the hubs off is to back the bolts part way out and use a rubber mallet to hit the heads of the bolts to push the hub out of the spindle. That is, if you want to reuse the hubs.
I bought a complete kit from eBay and the passenger side spindle was bent. The seller sent me a new one and it was also bent. So do yourself a favor and buy new ones so you KNOW they're not bent. It's more expensive, but worth it, IMO.
If you're going to do the calipers in Red or Yellow, Autozone sells some pre-powdercoated calipers for $100 a set, but there's a core charge. If you get used calipers, it would be worth considering spending the $100 and giving up your used ones, for a set of new (or reman) ones that are already painted profesionally. Less mess, less fuss.
I painted mine, and one night the caliper bracket came loose because I didn't get the bolts torqued right or something, and the caliper moved around inside my wheel, it chewed up my wheel some, and chewed some of the paint off the caliper. So make sure you get those abutment bracket bolts tightened properly. I believe the spec is 74 ft lbs and I also used red loctite the 2nd time around.
Regular calipers for the 98+ cars are only $40 at Autozone plus core, so that's not too bad.
One of the calipers that I got with my setup had a seized bleed valve, so I had to replace that caliper.
I bought new OE rubber lines, because I couldn't locate braided stainless lines for just the front. Everyone that sells the braided lines, sells them in complete 'whole car' sets. I didn't want to have to buy one set for the LS1 fronts and one set for the LT1 rears.
The OE LS1 brake hoses connect different than my stockers, and were SHORTER than my stock ones. The hoses would NOT mount in the brackets that bolt to the car without binding when I turned the wheel. I think the LS1 uses a different set of hard lines, changing where the hoses couple in the wheel well.
The easy way to get the hubs off is to back the bolts part way out and use a rubber mallet to hit the heads of the bolts to push the hub out of the spindle. That is, if you want to reuse the hubs.
I bought a complete kit from eBay and the passenger side spindle was bent. The seller sent me a new one and it was also bent. So do yourself a favor and buy new ones so you KNOW they're not bent. It's more expensive, but worth it, IMO.
If you're going to do the calipers in Red or Yellow, Autozone sells some pre-powdercoated calipers for $100 a set, but there's a core charge. If you get used calipers, it would be worth considering spending the $100 and giving up your used ones, for a set of new (or reman) ones that are already painted profesionally. Less mess, less fuss.
I painted mine, and one night the caliper bracket came loose because I didn't get the bolts torqued right or something, and the caliper moved around inside my wheel, it chewed up my wheel some, and chewed some of the paint off the caliper. So make sure you get those abutment bracket bolts tightened properly. I believe the spec is 74 ft lbs and I also used red loctite the 2nd time around.
Regular calipers for the 98+ cars are only $40 at Autozone plus core, so that's not too bad.
One of the calipers that I got with my setup had a seized bleed valve, so I had to replace that caliper.
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