Silvershark

I am looking to purchase some worth wild suspension parts that will get my power to the ground. I was wondering if anyone has any real life experience with the non adjustable lca's and panhard rods. Do the poly bushings cause any more added noise to the car? Would one poly and one rod end be preferable? I currently have a 400rwhp car and I am now looking to get some worth wild suspension mods. I have all stock suspension parts and I am in need of an upgrade. I noticed today at 1,2 shift the wheel hop is insane. I am just running street tires. I am looking to purchase subframe connectors down the road. So any advice on what will help get the power to the ground with these two modifications and not cause any extra noise. Also, I am thinking of sticking with the stock sized tire and not lowering my car. Would the relocation brackets be worth the money, or have you had good experience without them?

Sorry for so many questions. Engine stuff I know a thing or two about, but when it comes to suspension parts I need some schooling.

I can borrow some ET Streets from a friend, so I want to make sure I can use them effectively.

Oh yah, this is drag car only, however I do drive it on the streets during the summer months. Would removing my front sway bar help with getting better traction? What exactly does removing the sway bar actually do, The only thing I could think of was lightening the front end up. What is its purpose?

Injuneer

Non-adjustable lower control arms, plus the LCA relocation brackets will work wonders with increasing straight line traction, and eliminating wheel hop - they are a worth while investment. For straight line racing, poly on both ends will work. That setup's not good for street driving at the limits, because it can cause suspension bind as the body starts to roll in a corner. The cure is to use one rod end (at the axle) and one poly end (at the chassis). Poly doesn't really add noise. Rod ends do. Hard-core drag car.... use rod ends on both ends and live with the noise.

You won't notice a lot of difference with the panhard rod..... it will keep the back end from "wagging" side to side, so its going to help you run the car a bit straighter at the track.

The sway bar's purpose is to reduce the body roll in cornering. In a straight line application, you want the front end to lift, and because of the torque reaction at the rear axle, the right rear will squat and try to lift the left front. The sway bar prevents the left front from coming up, since it ties the left and right side a-arms together in torsion. The front end will come up quicker with no sway bar, first because there is less weight, and second because the left and right sides of the front end are no longer locked together.

But, with BIG power, now you've got the front left coming up and the right rear squatting, bending the chassis and making the car difficult to launch straight. So now you need to eliminate that problem. That requires an airbag in the right rear spring, or a very heavy rear sway bar.

At this point, with no front sway bar, and a beefy rear bar, don't try and take corners fast.

Also consider adjustable shocks to allow you to loosen the front end at the track, "drag" springs, and and adjustable torque arm to control the pinion angle.

Silvershark

Thanks for all the tips! I was also looking on ls1.com and it seems maybe these dimples in my left rear quarter panel arent from someone hitting it. The guys on LS1 were talking about body flex causing dimples in this panel. I have about 7 of them about the size of a quarter in the left panel above the wheel well. Is this due to the fact that I have a uni body? Will the LCA's and the Panhard rod fix this? Or is this something that SFC's are going to be needed for?

hotpart

The dimples are caused from chassis flex. A good set of subframe connectors will help eliminate the flex caused from the weak unibody.

Silvershark

So I am looking at Subframe connectors, LCA's, brackets, and Panhard rod? Do I need the subframe connectors before I get my LCA's and panhard rod? Or can I do the LCA's and panhard rod first? There wont be any fitment issues if I dont purchase SFC's first?

Koby

You can put them on in any order. I would get the LCA's and relocation brackets first because they would benifit you the most. Also depending on how much you race the car you might want to look into a new torque arm, relocated off the tranny mount.....but just as you mentioned above, some good drag radials will help you out more than anything.