A newer Accord has better brakes than my Firebird?
#1
A newer Accord has better brakes than my Firebird?
Meh, maybe no surprise there? I just drove an 05 or 06 Accord today for a short amount of time and wow, those things are pretty touchy.
Anyway, I am looking to get some new rotors and pads (at least.) What are some good options that wont need any modification? Also where could I pick them up at? I wouldn't want to spend more than a few hundred. $250, maybe $300
Oh and sorry if this question is asked a lot.
Anyway, I am looking to get some new rotors and pads (at least.) What are some good options that wont need any modification? Also where could I pick them up at? I wouldn't want to spend more than a few hundred. $250, maybe $300
Oh and sorry if this question is asked a lot.
Last edited by aliensRreal; 05-30-2007 at 11:17 PM.
#2
Well lets see first you drove a car that is is newer you would think LS1 brakes were designed in what 96 or 97 (no idea really) tomake the 98 year.
2. How many miles on your fluid,pads,rotors etc?
3. Touchy brakes does not equal better, how was it form 100-0 3 times a in a row? fade?
Need some blanks, super blue fluid metal master fronts and hawk rears. And some steal brake lines(optinoal). Be much improved now!
2. How many miles on your fluid,pads,rotors etc?
3. Touchy brakes does not equal better, how was it form 100-0 3 times a in a row? fade?
Need some blanks, super blue fluid metal master fronts and hawk rears. And some steal brake lines(optinoal). Be much improved now!
#3
The Accord probably brakes in about the same distance as your F-body, fact is F-bodies just dont have the best pedal feel. In my opinion, being honest, the only really responsive dynamic 4th gens have is the gas pedal.
Upgrading your brakes will allow your car to stop faster, but they're not going to feel like the brakes on a Accord no matter what you do. Much like, you can upgrade your suspension to out perform say an 350Z on a particular course, but the car is never going to steer as responsively as one.
Upgrading your brakes will allow your car to stop faster, but they're not going to feel like the brakes on a Accord no matter what you do. Much like, you can upgrade your suspension to out perform say an 350Z on a particular course, but the car is never going to steer as responsively as one.
#4
i drive 3 GM cars and i do not feel that GM can come close to the build quality, reliability, or dependability of honda or toyota. not that this has a ton to do with brakes themselves. that i just my opinion in general...
#5
Well lets see first you drove a car that is is newer you would think LS1 brakes were designed in what 96 or 97 (no idea really) to make the 98 year.
2. How many miles on your fluid,pads,rotors etc?
3. Touchy brakes does not equal better, how was it form 100-0 3 times a in a row? fade?
Need some blanks, super blue fluid metal master fronts and hawk rears. And some steal brake lines(optinoal). Be much improved now!
2. How many miles on your fluid,pads,rotors etc?
3. Touchy brakes does not equal better, how was it form 100-0 3 times a in a row? fade?
Need some blanks, super blue fluid metal master fronts and hawk rears. And some steal brake lines(optinoal). Be much improved now!
2) I haven't a clue as to how many miles on each thing. I have only had the car for about 10k miles if that.
3) The brakes seem to slow fine, but there is some studdering (not often, but happens. I know it could be ABS too.) and squeaking (this happens a lot more often but doesn't happen all the time.)
As far as the blanks part, I assume you mean blank rotors. I don't want slotted and/or drilled?
Metal Master fronts and Hawk rears. I know the Hawks are brake pads and I am assuming the Metal Masters are too. Is there a reason why I shouldn't have one brand all the way around? And aren't the Hawks incredible expensive?
#6
I think the main issue with the camaro brake pedal is that there is always a lot more than you think there is. There is a few times I didn't think I was going to be able to scrub off enough speed since it already felt like the brakes were at their max but a little more pressure and I found a bit more stopping power.
#7
I didn't mean to make it sound that I wanted brakes like the Accord. I would rather it be less touchy, sort of like my car is now. I just want something to help a bit.
2) I haven't a clue as to how many miles on each thing. I have only had the car for about 10k miles if that.
3) The brakes seem to slow fine, but there is some studdering (not often, but happens. I know it could be ABS too.) and squeaking (this happens a lot more often but doesn't happen all the time.)
As far as the blanks part, I assume you mean blank rotors. I don't want slotted and/or drilled?
Metal Master fronts and Hawk rears. I know the Hawks are brake pads and I am assuming the Metal Masters are too. Is there a reason why I shouldn't have one brand all the way around? And aren't the Hawks incredible expensive?
2) I haven't a clue as to how many miles on each thing. I have only had the car for about 10k miles if that.
3) The brakes seem to slow fine, but there is some studdering (not often, but happens. I know it could be ABS too.) and squeaking (this happens a lot more often but doesn't happen all the time.)
As far as the blanks part, I assume you mean blank rotors. I don't want slotted and/or drilled?
Metal Master fronts and Hawk rears. I know the Hawks are brake pads and I am assuming the Metal Masters are too. Is there a reason why I shouldn't have one brand all the way around? And aren't the Hawks incredible expensive?
The studdering could be warped rotors and/or ABS if your braking hard etc.
Yes, most people use the Brembo blanks from Sam, Autozone blanks (the good ones), or ws6store rotors.
The metal masters (pbr) and the hawks are really about the same Pad (no not the racing hawks), aggresive for street, but you dont' have to warm them up, dust bad etc. The metal master fronts are tad big cheaper. Front and rears should be around 120-140 I would think. You can get hawks all way around nothing wrong with that, just might run ya 15 or so more dollars and you shouldn't be able to tell the difference.
I dont' know what you call expensive but around 70 dollar for GOOD quality fronts don't seem to bad. You can go with the 19.99 specials, but I wouldnt' trust something important as brakes to a cheap part and your going have them wear out quick and dust more.
I think after just doing a good brake job you will be happy with the car stopping. Also you got to think tire tread wear,road conditions and your SUSPENSION (read here shocks) and play a big role 10-15% I would say you have insufficient damping and that could be hurting your weight transfer, just something else to think about.
Hope this helps.
#8
I am not so much after expense. As long as I can keep the budget in mind the quality is what's important. With that said the Autozone rotors are of decent quality? I would expect something with the Autozone name on it to be leacking.
Also, what advantages would the steel break lines have?
Yes, I want to get my suspension done too. Not long ago I asked about it. I hope to order some higher quality shocks soon, getting new springs to lower it would be nice but not at 200 dollars a pop.
If I do get the shocks very soon I would want to see how much that helps. This isn't something I want to go all out on right now since the suspension seems to be fine, just quite bouncy.
Thanks a lot for all your help
Also, what advantages would the steel break lines have?
Yes, I want to get my suspension done too. Not long ago I asked about it. I hope to order some higher quality shocks soon, getting new springs to lower it would be nice but not at 200 dollars a pop.
If I do get the shocks very soon I would want to see how much that helps. This isn't something I want to go all out on right now since the suspension seems to be fine, just quite bouncy.
Thanks a lot for all your help
Last edited by aliensRreal; 06-02-2007 at 12:05 AM.
#9
I am not so much after expense. As long as I can keep the budget in mind the quality is what's important. With that said the Autozone rotors are of decent quality? I would expect something with the Autozone name on it to be leacking.
Also, what advantages would the steel break lines have?
Yes, I want to get my suspension done too. Not long ago I asked about it. I hope to order some higher quality shocks soon, getting new springs to lower it would be nice but not at 200 dollars a pop.
If I do get the shocks very soon I would want to see how much that helps. This isn't something I want to go all out on right now since the suspension seems to be fine, just quite bouncy.
Thanks a lot for all your help
Also, what advantages would the steel break lines have?
Yes, I want to get my suspension done too. Not long ago I asked about it. I hope to order some higher quality shocks soon, getting new springs to lower it would be nice but not at 200 dollars a pop.
If I do get the shocks very soon I would want to see how much that helps. This isn't something I want to go all out on right now since the suspension seems to be fine, just quite bouncy.
Thanks a lot for all your help
Steal brakes lines "help" the pedal feel. They provide a firmer more resopnsive feel and the fluid on hard stops can't bugle the line. And they should last forever pretty much.
Remember if you lower go good springs! Many people uses sams 1.2 inch drop. Also if you doing springs your "opnly" choices are revavles (550 or so) and Konis starting at 740. If you get the 4/4 (4th gen front and rears) you can lower the car .5 to .75 inch with the shocks only.
Well Bouncy don't sound fine lol. How many miles on your car? The stock shocks are very anemic and pretty much suck! If your not lowering your car ever, you can get some HD's there 350 or so these days.
Good luck on getting things how you want them, thats the fun part of modding you can improve what you care most about
#10
Ya, I agree with you on the modding the thing I care most about. I just can't afford it . Only making about 70 bucks a week doesn't really cut it when this stuff comes up. My car really needs to get painted aswell, somehow I have these black "scuffs" on my passenger door.
#11
I work at a GM dealer, and 100% GM Fan, and I totally agree with that statement..Im a Lot guy so i've driven them all
#14
Of course a car that much newer you would expect it to brake better.
#15
That's a very good point, I've driven cars with excellent pedal feel that didn't really stop that quick when you stomped on the pedal. & proper brake system maintenance is important, too. I can also say, having owned both, that the LS1 brakes are a huge improvement over the LT1s. After that it's mostly about the tires and weight transfer.