lt1hatesme

what would cause rear brakes to squeak? i have this horribly loud squeaking noise from my rear brakes that almost makes me not want to drive the car. i took a look at it today and it looks like when i hit the curb (long time ago) the bracket that holds the caliper and pads, was touching the bottom of the rotor, well i shaved that now nothing is touching the rotor and when i put it all back together and drove away, it was louder than ever.

also, how hard is it to swap a carrier from one rear to another? with the gears already installed, could i just take it out, and put it into another one?

one last question, 3.23 gears are in a 2 series carrier right?

GreenDemon

I don't know about the brakes, unless the pads are worn too thin, but...

On stock GM cars, the 3.08 and below are 2 series.
3.23 and up are 3 series. However, aftermarket vendors supply 3.23 and higher in 2 series.

Jay-Roll

Is your caliper and everything functioning properly? I had a caliper lock up on me(ended up being the E brake sticking) and it absolutely ruined the rotor. Didn't really grind or anything when driving, but hit the brakes and woooaa....horrible sound. Replaced both rear calipers,rotors,pads and just kept the E brake unhooked and I'm problem free. Try getting the car up in the air and putting it in neutral. Then turn the rotor by hand when you have the wheel off and see if you can detect what's making the noise. Something is obviously causing the problem.

lt1hatesme

ok so if i had a rear from a 2000 TA with stock 3.23s it would be a 3 series carrier? what if i wanted to put my 3.42s in there with my 2 series carrier? could i just take the carriers and swap them?

BTW, how would i know if it was the Ebrake? is there something i could see or adjust? if its bad, how would i unhook it?

Jay-Roll

Look at your caliper when it's mounted. there will be a part that extends down and towards the center of the car. At the bottom of it will be a little round rubber type thing. It's about the same diameter around as a pop can but only about 1 inch thick. It should have a cable coming down to it that will extend straight from up by the differential. Calipers on each side will be exactly the same with that part pointing towards the center of the car and each will have a cable going down to it. All you do is pull out the cable a little bit with your hand and slip the linkage off the caliper. This should release the round spring the cable is connected to and in turn release any pressure it has on the caliper. I hope this helps. Don't know if that's the problem but if it is that will atleast prevent it from happening anymore. Doesn't mean any damage it's already caused will be fixed though. Keep that in mind.

lt1hatesme

i will try that tomorrow, but lets say i wanted to put it back on the car one day, how would i get the EBrake working properly again?

Jay-Roll

You'd just have to get new cables. I'm sure a parts store would have em, and I can't imagine they'd be very expensive. They say you actually need to USE the E brake often to keep the cable in good working order and keep it from rusting. My car is an A4 and I have used the brake maybe twice in 4 years. So the last time I used it it ceased up.

Here's a picture of what I was describing. I've circled the part I'm talking about and put an arrow on the cable I am describing coming down. The spot where you unhook the cable has a green arrow pointing to it. I borrowed this pick from Brent Frankers site. It was the first one I could find showing what I was talking about. Brent I hope you don't mind. Caliper

lt1hatesme

awww poo i cant see the file, but i know what youre talking about, i was looking at my brakes today. hopefully tomorrow i wont get in there and forget everything

Jay-Roll

Hmmm... I tried it and the link works for me. Maybe someone else can make sure it's working. Anywayz you said you know what it is. Good luck, hope that's all the problem is.

Jay-Roll

Ever figure out the problem?

lt1hatesme

lt1hatesme

no but i did manage to throw some money at it, since the incident, my diff was leaking also so i think this is a good option... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:US:6

Jay-Roll

Yup that's definately a good deal. I found a nice deal on my 3.42 rear for $300. Included brakes and calipers(which is usually hard to get with a rear). Also had a MAC rear end girdle with studs. So now the rear is stiffened up a little over stock and it looks better. Coming with the control arms,shocks,springs,brakes,etc. would be a great deal. Depending on mileage of your car you could use everything to replace your existing stuff with lower mileage stuff, or atleast have backups. Probably your best bet if you are unsure of the problem. If anything, you break the rear at the track and use your stocker for a replacement. That's exactly what I'm doing. Then you'd still have the good brakes from the rear you bought. Good luck

lt1hatesme

yea im kinda excited to get this rear so i can get this whole problem over with.

im actually selling the car, so im trying to take care of all the problems before i sell it, its going to my best friend and he drives like a woman.

it hasnt seen any track time though and i seriously doubt he will take it to the track, but its all good.