396D1SS

where is the rest of the tnt kit hiding?

96TurboWS6

my flares came out like ****..i hope they work.

96TurboWS6

all done. It came out really well today. I had to replace half of the hardline to the pass. brake becuase I fubar'd it. Also, I bought pretty much all new lines off the MC. The old ones looked absolutely horrible after they were done( i was learning on them)...now i gues we will see how well they hold. So far they didnt leak for the bleeding...i guess we will see when i actually get the car back together.

exgmguy

I had problems with the stock lines splitting after flaring them. They are a lot harder than parts store line and do not flare as easily.

roguedriver

Heres mine. I just did it last week. Flaring is no problem if you have the right tool and you get what you pay for is so right! The cheap $15 made in Tiwan double flare tool lasted for 1 (yes, one!) 1/4" flare, then the teeth on the tool were gone. So got a good old made in america tool at Car Quest for $60 and it kicked butt. Now have so much more room around the supercharger. Wish i would have did the job when i had the engine out though. Would have made it a lot easier...



Ken R.

flusz28

i retned a flare kit from autozone and i'm having a hell of a time flaring the lines.. any tips.. like what size metric flare fitting you used?

roguedriver

I first borrowed a kit from Autozone. It was used up and kept pushing the lines out the back of the tool. Took that back then bought the cheap one. Then that went in the dumper. So bought the $60 tool and no problems. I got the ABS delete kit from SJM Manufacturing most lines were flared already, but still had to flare 2 of their lines and also the lines on the car after they were cut. Just used 3/16" on the flare tool for the small lines and 1/4" for the larger. You need to make sure when you cut the lines that they are cut straight and a good tool makes all the difference or you'll have a hell of a time flaring them. If the tool doesn't grab the line good, it will start pushing out and if it's not cut straight, it will flare it crooked and your line will probably leak. Hope that helps.

Ken R.

flusz28

hmm alright thanks

always faster

No matters what people says a real safe ABS delete include a proportion valve thats it.

Why bother with your safety to try to save 50$

97WS6Pilot

Dont get me wrong and I'm not pretending to know everything but I'm going to disagree with you on this one. Why would I put a proportioning valve on the back brakes of a car when the front brakes lock up first? I don't mind spending the money on my car if its needed. I guess if the backs were locking up first I could see installing a proportioning valve. The whole point of this for me was making more room in the engine bay. As far as I can tell most guys are leaving the valve mostly open.

97WS6Pilot

I guess I got lucky with the autozone tool and hard lines. Wasn't trying to mislead anyone. My flares turned out perfect the first time. Well, that is the first time I didn't forget to put the fitting on before I flared it. LOL

flusz28

is there two different flare kits? like a single and a double flare? maybe i got the single flare kit??

97WS6Pilot

This is similar to the one I rented. My kit didn't have a cutter, rig reamer, or files. It just had some small dies, press, and tube holder.

Here is a write up on double flares.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/

flusz28

what i'm asking is,there is only a double flare kit correct. like there isn't a single and double flare... my kit only has fitting,tube holder and thread down tool. mine looks just like that...

snod83

I find it to be absolutely hilarious that people are arguing the SAFE way to REMOVE abs???

Not that I disagree with removing it, but ya know, it was put there for safety???

Oh well, good work non the less, and I will probaly be removing mine soon...

Ryan