96SilverRam

Looks real good ! That Spohn extreme rear drag bar is huge !

Scorpner

93ZM6Tally,
Hope you don't mind me asking, but what is that "L" shaped joint on the other side of the coil over?

93ZM6Tally

Don't mind at all. I think you're looking at the front of the Spohn Drag bar, (Sway Bar), . . It uses adjustable QA1 end links to attach to the frame.

SpeedDemon02SS

that looks hot man.

yo...how did you get the rest of the underside that clean? im talking about the stock frame raills and other stock parts that corrode?

93ZM6Tally

Yes. I sandblasted the engine bay and underside of the car. Then about 1/2 gallon of POR-15 black. I used POR-15 Manifold grey on all of the heat shields and catback system, even went a little overboard and painted the muffler with POR-15.

SpeedDemon02SS

thats crazy. i dont want to take the whole car apart. so i am just sanding and using spray under coat black on all of the stock parts. but that looks really good!

93ZM6Tally

I wasn't planning on taking the whole car apart either, but I got a little stir crazy waiting on the machine shop to finish my block. Then I decided, gee I really need new shocks and suspension, and I really wanted a new fuel pump, regulator, fuel lines, rear battery relocation project, modified parallel fuel rails, rebuild the transmission with performance parts, new tires, just had to have 315's in the rear, and new tires wouldn't be good on old rims. Really didn't want to put stock heads on stroker so fully ported AFR 210's were next, mounted with head studs, and new tall valve covers, oh darn now the alternator is in the way so move that, ditch the AC. Old headers were kind of starting to rust so new Jet Hots. Found a broken mounting bracket on the opti so I got a new one and decided that a per coil ignition would look nice so LTCC, which precipitated new wires and fuel rail covers because I didn't want to cover up the pretty new valve covers. Shouldn't forget the Autometer fuel pressure gauge and the associated pod to mount it, not to mention ARP hardware everywhere.

All of this after carefully budgeting 4k for a forged four bolt bottom end that ended up being a story in itself, changed cranks mid stream.

This is how my engine rebuild turned into my very own version of Overhaulin. Now if I can just get Chip Foose to paint my car and redo the interior. I am a poster child for Camaro ultra obsessive compulsiveness. I have dumped another 15k into a car that's worth less than 5k, pissed off my wife and alienated my children.

SpeedDemon02SS

that is nuts. more power too ya. post some pics of the final project. im plannin on going that route eventually, but i want to keep the car 'apearing' stock... the car only has 40k on it, so im gonna wait till the engine takes a turn for the worse - im hoping to get at least 100k out of it, thouhg, ive heard 150-200 is not out of hte question. but when the time does come, i was thinking of a fully built 402 from SLP. but for now...im just sticking to everthing else. and after that...im making the call to procharger

Scorpner

Ahhh, I see- it is the sway bar end link. I couldn't figure out what that was. Thanks.
Does it change the ride at all (harshness)? My end links keep loosening up on me and I think that might be a good alternative.

Mine started out as a simple engine buildup as well, but now I have replaced the entire drivetrain from a 383, modified700r4, Al driveshaft, and Moser 9".

Nice job on the body. I am a big fan of POR-15, I also like Marine Clean and Metal Ready that they also sell. Really helps clean the rust after sanding it down. The Marine Clean also cleaned up my coolant and washer fluid bottles as well. I did the full treatment on the K-member but just straight POR-15 on the A-arms. As a note to anyone not familiar with it, all this stuff is nasty so don't breathe any of it.

SpeedDemon02SS

where can you get it? is spray or brush on? I want to clean up some of the parts in my suspension.

93ZM6Tally

I ordered it online. I brushed it on, but it can be sprayed, but you'll need to use their thinner and only their thinner. Be prepared for sticker shock. I spent almost 400 bucks on paint but I got a lot, 1 gal POR-15, Engine Block kit, Fuel Tank Sealer, Manifold paint for muffler systems and heat shields and a bunch of Metal Ready and Marine Clean. Follow their directions carefully. Some more tips, basically use throw away brushes, cleaning just won't work, also cover the can with plastic wrap underneath the can cover because if any paint gets between the cap and the can it's a real bitch to get the cap off. As far as surface prep, probably the rougher the surface the better, sandblast surfaces work really well, smoother surfaces should be prepped with Metal Ready.

Scorpner

I bought it direct from POR15.com. Don't spray it, I bought the thinner and found out than I would need a fresh air respirator to do this. I guess it can be serious if sprayed. See this link: http://www.mnfbody.com/showthread.ph...ighlight=por15

Marine Clean and Metal Ready come with spray bottles which I do use. It can burn the nose even when you hold your breath and can irritate the skin. But I do wear protection and use it in a specific place outside. You can soak small parts as well.

realstreetracer

If anyone is interested in saving a 120.00 I put my own kit together for my coil overs. I used my Jegs racer discount.

springs $62.00 12-150 qa1's
coil overs $282.00 qa1 brand
reinforcement plates. 50.00
hardware $40.00 basically the clevis mounts from compettion engineering pn. 3442

same kit as Sp**ns

sseeya

Did you make your own reinforcement plates?

realstreetracer

No, I bought them from the company who sells the coil over kit. After seeing them, making a pair could have saved me money as well.