6SpdLT1Z

I think I've got everything planned out. Let me know what you guys think. Anything I should change before I order parts, any tips on putting it together, etc.

Car:
1997 Camaro SS M6
153,000 miles

Mods can be found on fquick (rear lca's, adj panhard, sportlines/ss springs, full exhaust, 52mm tb, etc.)

Here's what I'm looking at ordering:
SLP Level II Suspension (factory suspension that was on my car)
Front Upper Strut Mounts (Left & Right) from O'Reilly Auto - I've heard the top nuts spin on these so I'm going to have them welded together so that they won't spin.
Front Strut Mount Insulator (one or two?)
UMI Tubular SFC's - Weld On (Is weld on a necessity, my car is somewhat rare so I'm a little hesitant on making a permanent change to the car.)


If I disconnect the 4 bolts off the upper strut mount from the engine bay and take off the lower shock, the whole unit (strut mounts, shock, spring) will come right out, right? Do I need to compress the old shock/springs for any parts, or will I have all the hardware between my shock/spring set and new front strut mounts?

Also -- my car has sportlines on the front and stock ss/level II springs on the back. My primary motivation for this project is I need more ground clearance for my long tubes, and my shocks are worn) Do I need new rear springs or should they be fine? I suppose for the extra $50-70 it's not a bad idea to replace them either way.

Injuneer

I have an online guide to changing the front springs/shocks (no struts on a 4th Gen). You need a spring compressor to separate the spring and shock, unless you have bought all the parts required. The upper spring/shock seats have several parts... did you buy all of them? I reused the dust cover/jounce bumper, dogbone, etc. from the stock springs.

There another part stuck to the bottom of the main seat that isn't shown in this photo:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/shk08.jpg

Shoebox has an exploded diagram of the spring.shock assembly:

http://shbox.com/1/front_suspension.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/HALEibch.html

6SpdLT1Z

I picked up upper strut mounts from Advance. I'm looking to start pulling the front suspension apart here in the next week or so.

6SpdLT1Z

I finally got the time to dive into this. I'm on Step 13 of your guide, Injuneer. I need to grab a 3/8 Hex from my dad and locate a fork to separate the lower ball joint stud from the lower a arm.



Hopefully tomorrow night I'll find those then get the brake caliper and rotor off, lower the a-arm (after separating the stud) and slide the strut right out. The lower shock bolts are loosened in that picture.

I don't need to do anything with the tie rod ends, correct? Also, all of the upper shock bolts (in the engine bay) are off except one which is holding it in place.

shoebox

I would not use a pickle fork. Boot damage often occurs.

Check out this thread that describes the "shock method" for opening up tapered joints.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=749422

6SpdLT1Z

I'm a little confused. I have a floor jack under the middle of the lower a-arm. Are you saying I can just hit it a couple times with the hammer now and that will separate the stud? Obviously if I can avoid renting/borrowing a pickle fork or risk damaging my boot I'm all for it.

If you could go into detail a bit more it'd be greatly appreciated.

DansRedZ28

how to remove strut, the way i do it and have done over 50 times

its easy, put your bottom back on lower ball join and pin not need to do it that way!!!

OK with sway bar bolts removed, lower 2 shock bolts out, and 3 of the 4 out strut mounts bolts out, pull upper ball joint pin out loosen the nut, then lower jack off the a arm just so its barely not touching the lower a arm then hit spindle hard hammer and it should pop off then jack back up and take the nut off the upper ball joint and the last strut bolt you left on off then lower jack and lower a arm and spindle should lower a lot and strut should and upper a arm should come right out. I do this never even removing the brakes no need to!

Procharged94Lt1

You can do bolt-in SFC's but weld-in work better. And I understand your thinking with the consideration of your car being rare, but with already 153,000 miles on it I kinda doubt it will be selling for top dollar at a Barret Jackson anytime soon. The weld-in are better and make an improvement to the car that just about anyone will appreciate.

6SpdLT1Z

Thanks Dan.

shoebox

Detail was provided in the link posted.

6SpdLT1Z

Per my reply, I read the whole thread and couldn't figure out. However, I used Dans method and got the strut out now so I don't really need to figure out that method anymore, or else I'd go back through and re-read it a third time.

Procharged94Lt1

I'm slightly confused- what is going to support the bottom of the spring? and how you plan on attaching the bottom of the strut to the LCA?

6SpdLT1Z

I haven't removed the hardware from the old strut or assembled the new one. Last pick was just a "mock up" before and after. It should bolt right up, it's the factory shock/spring combo for my car.

TD95Z

There's a hard rubber isolator on the bottom of the front springs that you will want to remove from the old units, unless you have new ones already.

95TA04GOAT

I may be mistaken but judging by the bottom mount it looks like your using the rear shock for mock up.