Jachin99

My car has 70k and is starting to squat HARD on acceleration, it wasnt like this a couple of years ago when i first got it. I want this car to do well at the drag strip, but still be driveable. I already have a kooks full exhaust and a sub in it, so road vibrations wont be that noticeable to me anyway. What can i do to fix this problem?

Injuneer

The best set up 4th Gen I've seen lifted the rear nicely on a hard launch and had no problems with 1.3 60-fts. It was a 30th SS convertible, with custom Spohn torque arm ("custom" to accomodate the 1,350HP), Spohn tubular LCA's with rod ends, QA1 rear shocks, the stock coils out of my 94 Formula, a Spohn panhard rod that had been significantly lowered from the stock position. Entire suspension was set up by Steve Spohn. I think the front suspension limiters may have contributed to the lift at the rear.

Here's the way it launched, on the way to a low 8-second pass (on 31.5" slicks):



http://www.injuneer.com/images/Video...eBax%20876.WMV

Jachin99

That looks like a badass car but ill never have more than 4 or 500 hp. Custom really isnt in my budget either. I was reading somewhere that torque arms that bolt to the transmission crossmember were a lot better for stiffness, but you needed an aftermarket crossmember to mount it up. I cant remember where i saw it though.

Injuneer

You only need the "custom" part for 1,000+ HP. Other than some extra braces between the upper and lower bars, it was the same as any other arm he sells.

You want to get the front TA mount off the tranny tailshaft. The aftermarket arms don't usually mount to the tranny cross-member. They typically mount to the floor pans at the location of the pads for the sheet metal brace right under the front of the driveshaft, at least with reasonable HP setups. The front mount can also be a tubular cross-member welded to sub-frame connectors in the same position (front-to-back) as the sheet metal brace.

multicar

Also, make sure the bump stops aren't missing for the rear end. They tend to rot off relatively early and the dealer price for them are rediculous. I found some made from real rubber; not that spongey crap from a 86 Jeep CJ at rockauto. Now they do need to be 'adjusted' to fit. Basically about 3/16" ground down one long side from bolt hole to bolt hole in order to fit the pocket in the wheel well. Just a thought...