Replacing front shock/springs - bolts removed, unit won't come free
08-12-2010, 11:06 PM
#16
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So, when I removed the assembly from the upper a-arm, I left the a-arm attached. Injuneer's documentation suggests threading it through the upper a-arm, and loosely fitting the bolts/nuts. It seems rather difficult to do so solo, and I am planning on loosely fitting the lower bolts, and then threading it through the upper a-arm. Does anyone predict potential problems with this method? Another reason I want to do it this way is that the upper bolts won't line up as currently oriented, and I'm assuming the fit to the a-arm will allow easier play if the lower is attached already?? Thanks again folks.
08-16-2010, 12:22 PM
#17
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Just to be clear, I had the spring put on the new shock by a garage (so I'm assuming it was done correctly?) -- I'm just skeptical that I will be able to put the assembly back in. When I put the bolts through the upper a-arm and prepare to bolt it in; the lower shock mounts are diagonal to where they would rest in the lower control arm.
08-17-2010, 02:29 PM
#18
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Just to be clear, I had the spring put on the new shock by a garage (so I'm assuming it was done correctly?) -- I'm just skeptical that I will be able to put the assembly back in. When I put the bolts through the upper a-arm and prepare to bolt it in; the lower shock mounts are diagonal to where they would rest in the lower control arm.
08-17-2010, 11:37 PM
#19
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From the procedure I linked for you, at the beginning of this thread:
For non-HAL shocks, it is important that you mark, in white paint or similar, the relative locations of the upper seat to the top of the spring, and the lower seat to the bottom of the spring and to the shock. And the upper seat relative to the lower seat. The lines must all match when the spring is reassembled, or you will not be able to get the unit back into the car correctly. With the HAL’s this is not necessary, because the spring will rotate freely on the lower height adjuster ring. The stock or other aftermarket will not rotate.
08-18-2010, 03:17 PM
#20
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08-18-2010, 04:54 PM
#21
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The same thing happened to me. I borrowed a spring compressor and compressed the spring just enough so that I could turn the shock with a big crescent until it lined up. I know I wasn't strong enough to turn it without easing off on the spring.
08-20-2010, 01:00 PM
#22
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08-22-2010, 03:09 PM
#23
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Got the front passenger side all squared away. Started to work on the driver side and ended up stripping the outer rear torx bolt VERY easily. For anyone taking these out, I'd suggest moving the master cylinder well out of the way so that it is possible to get the best leverage possible. Took a few hours of drilling out the head from the bolt, and a lot of cussing. 3/8" drill bit ended up separating it nicely. If there's a will, there's a way! I will NOT be putting torx back in there, such a PITA.
08-22-2010, 07:35 PM
#24
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Got the front passenger side all squared away. Started to work on the driver side and ended up stripping the outer rear torx bolt VERY easily. For anyone taking these out, I'd suggest moving the master cylinder well out of the way
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