T/A-Bob

I am on the fence about doing more mods to my car. The issue is this: If I give it heavy throttle (not necessarily WOT), and unless I'm pointed straight ahead, if a downshift occurs (A4), the back of the car will break loose a bit and it will fishtail for a second or two until the drag radials (at 27 PSI) regain their grip on the street.

If I were to do something to increase power, I think it's going to become more of a handful than I want to deal with (especially in cold weather when I'm running all-season tires instead of drag radials )

I assume this is some sort of suspension issue... my suspension is completely stock except for poly "sway bar" busings and a poly torque arm bushing.

I really don't feel comfortable considering additional mods unless/until I can get this under control. Anybody with recommendations on what I can do about this?

Thanks for any ideas...

Sinister95Z

I would start to focus on the suspension side of things now. There are many things you can do to put the power you are making to the ground. Even with stock power numbers suspension is a good idea.

Start with some rear lower control arms, relocation brackets, good shocks and a well made torque arm. Subframe connectors are a good idea as well. Those will make a huge impact and will be a very good start to an overall balanced set-up.

T/A-Bob

OK, thanks for the info. I'm surprised things like the torque arm could come into play on a car that's so close to stock.

The car does well at the strip (considering that it's not modded very much), but on the street it gives me unpleasant surprises some times. They almost always happen when the trans does a heavy throttle downshift.

Do you think larger/better tires would help, or would that just be avoiding the real problem?

greenmachinedriver

what size tires and wheels are you using now? there is a lot to be gained with supension mods even on a stock car. tires are one of the best ways to deal with traction issues imo its all about where the rubber meets the road if your running a skinny tire with all the best suspension you will not see the gain you would with a fatter tire. you can only ask so much from a limited contact patch.

T/A-Bob

I am running stock size 16 x 8's, with 245/50-16s all around... the rears are Nitto DRs. I drive on the street with the DRs at around 27 PSI. I would have thought this would be plenty of grip for a car that's so close to stock... but when there's a corner and a downshift, not so good.

Z-RATED94

Try running 25lbs. hot in the Nittos. You have to remember also that the Nittos are the least sticky of all the DRs out there.
If you have the money, buy some sub-frame connectors, relocation brackets, lower control arms, and a chassis mounted adj. torque arm.
One other thing is, cornering, and flooring it at the same time so the trans downshifts is driver error.

T/A-Bob

I know. Problem is sometimes it will downshift under part throttle, and I just don't seem to be able to predict it. My trans has always had nice crisp shifts, but this is one case where it's not helping me.

Also, I would have thought that even the Nittos would have enough stickiness for a car that's so close to stock...

slomarao

I would start with sub frames, lca's and re location brackets. Should help with things like wheel hop and other issues related to spinning instead of hooking.
From there i would get a torque arm and panhard rod bar, followed by shocks and springs.

Bud M

My car got a lot more stable in that situation when I put in a tubular PHB and LCAs. Do those first and see if that's enough to keep you happy. This stuff isn't cheap!

T/A-Bob

Thanks to all.

Looks like I'll start with LCAs. The little I know about the suspensions on these cars, LCAs often seem to be mentioned as something to replace.

I'll do some research here to see which ones people recommend and how hard it is to install them myself.

Bud M

A few thoughts on choosing LCAs:

Tubular LCAs are lighter than boxed and plenty strong enough.

Poly bushings on both ends (aside from the Hotpart LCAs) is the least desirable choice for handling, poly/rubber is better, poly/rod end or dual rod ends is best. Rod end quality will determine noisiness in operation to some degree.

If you have a jack and some stands and an impact wrench, installing is no big deal.

Z-RATED94

I must say, that was well said.

T/A-Bob

Thanks for the additional info.

JTR 96 TA

Well I agree with the recomendations for your suspension, I highly suggest you pick up set of 17"s and run 275's or 285's all around. This will drastically improve your traction in all situations. I would stick to that and getting some tubular LCA's ($100) and LCA relocation brackets ($65). The LCA's and relo's are by far the best bang for the buck, and really all your suspension is doing it planting the tires, so the more tire you have on the road, the better.

How many miles do you have on the car? -If you have more than 75k on it you also should consider replacing the rear shocks. Even with a set of new factory take-offs you will notice a diffrence. I don't know if it's still possible, but back in the day you could get them for $20 a set.


-Justin