BiGGinZ

Anyone running this panhard rod? Is it a good piece compared to the other brands, Thanks.

http://www.lmperformance.com/719/2.html

MdFormula350

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1296

i rather get that for three reasons.

u can pick color, its tubular, its already greesed with bushings installed as well as the greese fittings.

BiGGinZ

IRS Terminator Series Panhard Rod, what do you think about this brand?

BiGGinZ

Oh and I like the spohn too but I am looking for a used panhard rod, and can't find spohn or bmr for a good price. So I am just looking around.

LT4Firehawk

Why exactly are you looking for a panhard rod? The two real reasons to get one are:
1. centering axle for wider rear wheels/tires
2. better performance in the corners for autox/roadcourse

In either case, you would be best off saving up for a quality adjustable rod end unit. My preference is the one from Unbalanced Engineering.

BiGGinZ

The reason I am looking for one is for the cornering. I am going to get a new f-body, and I want to start by putting a couple suspension things on it to tighten the ride up. The car I am looking at already has sway bars and I already have lca's on the way. I want to get a panhard rod and subframes then my suspension will be complete for a while.

LT4Firehawk

Ok, then definitely save up for an quality adjustable panhard rod. The stock bar will work just fine until you can save up for a good replacemetn. I've driven f-bodies with stock and rod-end panhards on roadcourses, and while there is a benefit to a good rod-ended bar, the stock unit is not as bad as many people think.

One other thing, I hope the LCAs you have coming are at least rod ends on one end, and not poly on both ends. If they are poly/poly, send them back. For handling, you are better off with stock LCAs than with poly/poly LCAs. I've had stock, poly/poly, rod/poly, and rod/rod on f-bodies, and you definitely want to avoid the poly/poly units. They are great for straight line traction, but they have a tendency to bind under cornering and then release suddenly causing the rear to step out unexpectedly.

BiGGinZ

Thanks for the advice. I am just scared to get an adjustable anything because I don't know anything about the set-up of the suspension. I wouldn't know where everything needs to be set at.

LT1powered94

ever tried the DEL-A-LUMs? They're not supposed to bind. I would think rods would be too harsh for the street?

Jon A

Del-A-Lum would be a very poor choice for the PHB. It won't bind in an application that doesn't require rotation other than about the axis of the mounting bolt (Front Upper Control Arms, for example). But the PHB does require freedom to rotate about its own axis. Del-A-Lum won't allow that and will cause you to twist the bar itself and/or bend the mounting brackets--that's bind. While there isn't nearly as much required displacement on the PHB as there is for LCA's, it's there nonetheless.

Rod ends won't bind and in the PHB quality rod ends add virtually no ride harshness or noise (unlike LCA's, where they do add a fair amount). There's no reason to get a PHB without rod ends--even for a daily driver. The reduced side-to-side slop is a very noticable handling improvement. If you don't want rod ends, you probably don't need a new PHB in the first place. If looking to buy one, I'd go with Unbalanced Engineering's bar or the aluminum bar from LG Motorsports.

Injuneer

The SLP is a "boxed" stock PHR, and weighs a lot. A buddy of mine picked one up at the SLP booth at the E'town flea market, and is was so heavy we had to take turns carrying it around. Go for the light weight aftermarket bar. I don't think the Spohn PHR costs any more than the SLP.

LT4Firehawk

I've had two different rod end panhard bars on my 95 and on my 97. Neither unit caused any noticeable increase in ride harshness or extra noise. As mentioned above, rod end LCAs are where all the extra noise/harshness come in.

Red96Lt1

I would have to disagree. Please tell me why you think that LCA's have any affect on cornering. That is why there is a PHB. I've got the rubber/poly chromoly BRM LCA's and they greatly increased straight line traction. It's hard to tell about cornering since there are too many variables. But I've had my car to it's limits and past multiple times, and have NEVER felt any binding.

You have got to be wrong about the stock LCA's being better than any aftermarket LCA.

Jon A

Your Butt-O-Meter is out of calibration. They are binding. I sincerely hope these instances of having your car "past its limits" upon which you're making this statement aren't on the street.

Injuneer

If you look at the stock LCA rubber bushings, they are actually "hollow" on the top and bottom, to allow the LCA to rotate slightly around the axis of the mounting bolt, eliminating the bind. Aftermarket poly and even some rubber bushings are "solid" rather than hollow at the top and bottom, increasing the possibility of bind, as the body starts to roll and the end of LCA (which is being held in a postion perpendicular to the road, by the rear axle) can not achieve an angular displacement relative to the axis of the body end bolt. Using as least one spherical rod end eliminates that "bind" problem.