Spohn adjustable T/A bolt torque question
#1
Spohn adjustable T/A bolt torque question
I recently bought & swapped on a Spohn chassis mount adjustable torque arm, just like the one pictured below. It was bought used, so I have/had no instructions, although basic install is pretty much a simple "remove & replace" deal.
Install went smooth as silk, pinion angle is set at -2*, and yes, it has the infamous Spohn torque arm clunk sometimes.
My question, in the picture below, how tight should that particular bolt be? Should it be torqued to any spec, tightened as tight as I can get it, good and snug, or what? All other bolts/nuts only tighten as far as the bushing sleeves will let them, but this one, when tightened as tight as I can get it, seems to cause a binding up of that pivot point.
Thanks in advance.
p.s. Don't mind the kindergarten MS Paint job of mine, lol
Install went smooth as silk, pinion angle is set at -2*, and yes, it has the infamous Spohn torque arm clunk sometimes.
My question, in the picture below, how tight should that particular bolt be? Should it be torqued to any spec, tightened as tight as I can get it, good and snug, or what? All other bolts/nuts only tighten as far as the bushing sleeves will let them, but this one, when tightened as tight as I can get it, seems to cause a binding up of that pivot point.
Thanks in advance.
p.s. Don't mind the kindergarten MS Paint job of mine, lol
![](http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/4079/11261/219412.jpg)
#2
I can't remember off hand what I had that torqued to. I'll see if I can dig up the directions for the TA. Have you tried emailing the tech support at Spohn. There staff is extremely helpful and pretty good about responding to emails in a timely manner. I have asked them several questions and always have good results.
#4
As tight as you can get it with 2 wrenches, tq value is of no use because you cant get a tq wrench in there.If I am not mistaken there is a sleeve in there to stop you from binding it up, on both bolts.
BUT, I do have my instructions at home and will look when I get there.
David
BUT, I do have my instructions at home and will look when I get there.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 01-29-2008 at 06:30 PM.
#5
As tight as you can get it with 2 wrenches, tq value is of no use because you cant get a tq wrench in there.If I am not mistaken there is a sleeve in there to stop you from binding it up, on both bolts.
BUT, I do have my instructions at home and will look when I get there.
David
BUT, I do have my instructions at home and will look when I get there.
David
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#7
You don't want it "as tight as you can get it with two wrenches". There is no sleeve. You are sandwiching the side plates to the large diameter cylinder mount. You want the side plates to be able to rotate smoothly on the lower pivot. Doesn't the supplied nut have a nylock insert, allowing the nut to hold firm, even though it is not over-torqued against the side plates? It's been a while since I've been under my car.....
#8
You don't want it "as tight as you can get it with two wrenches". There is no sleeve. You are sandwiching the side plates to the large diameter cylinder mount. You want the side plates to be able to rotate smoothly on the lower pivot. Doesn't the supplied nut have a nylock insert, allowing the nut to hold firm, even though it is not over-torqued against the side plates? It's been a while since I've been under my car.....
Here it is straight from the Spohn instructions......
QUOTE:
The bolt and lock nut that secure the bottom of the front mount should not be TIGHT. You have been supplied with 5/8 grade 8 bolts and special "super" lock nuts. Wherever you stop turning these nuts they will stay locked in position they will not back off. The bottom connection of the front rotator mount should only be slightly "snug" so that the rotator is free to move front and back. If using a torque wrench 30 ft lbs is a good setting. If going by feel, bring the nut in until you fell it start to snug and stop. With the top disconnected it should move freely back and forth.
David
#10
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You are correct Fred I did not look at the pic good enough.
Here it is straight from the Spohn instructions......
QUOTE:
The bolt and lock nut that secure the bottom of the front mount should not be TIGHT. You have been supplied with 5/8 grade 8 bolts and special "super" lock nuts. Wherever you stop turning these nuts they will stay locked in position they will not back off. The bottom connection of the front rotator mount should only be slightly "snug" so that the rotator is free to move front and back. If using a torque wrench 30 ft lbs is a good setting. If going by feel, bring the nut in until you fell it start to snug and stop. With the top disconnected it should move freely back and forth.
David
Here it is straight from the Spohn instructions......
QUOTE:
The bolt and lock nut that secure the bottom of the front mount should not be TIGHT. You have been supplied with 5/8 grade 8 bolts and special "super" lock nuts. Wherever you stop turning these nuts they will stay locked in position they will not back off. The bottom connection of the front rotator mount should only be slightly "snug" so that the rotator is free to move front and back. If using a torque wrench 30 ft lbs is a good setting. If going by feel, bring the nut in until you fell it start to snug and stop. With the top disconnected it should move freely back and forth.
David
![Big Grin](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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