Spohn adjustable torque arm install
#1
Spohn adjustable torque arm install
I just got a Spohn adjustable torque arm for long tubes but with no manual (bought used).
I do not have the bolts that attach the front part to the body. What do I need there?
Also the front and back part screw together, should it be as tight as possible? (making the torque arm as short as possible).
And I have a unique bolt and I am not sure where it goes it will fit on the thread that attaches the front and the back together; where does it go?
Could anyone send me a copy of the install manual?
I do not have the bolts that attach the front part to the body. What do I need there?
Also the front and back part screw together, should it be as tight as possible? (making the torque arm as short as possible).
And I have a unique bolt and I am not sure where it goes it will fit on the thread that attaches the front and the back together; where does it go?
Could anyone send me a copy of the install manual?
#2
Torque Arm
Might cost a few bucks, but I think I would contact
Spohn and explain the situation. He would probably
sell and send you the info. Also comes with a special
magnetic drive line level to set up your pinion versus
driveline angle.
Nice guy to deal with.
Later
Spohn and explain the situation. He would probably
sell and send you the info. Also comes with a special
magnetic drive line level to set up your pinion versus
driveline angle.
Nice guy to deal with.
Later
Last edited by jaykar; 06-16-2008 at 01:01 PM.
#5
That would be great, because right now traction is not good. I always drive with drag radials, but it still sucks.
But now it is even worse, the original torque arm has a one inch rip both on top and on the bottom! so driving faster than 60mph and the rear starts to shake, and traction is a joke, I get massive wheel hop.
What kind of difference can I expect to see in the 60ft with the new torque arm?
But now it is even worse, the original torque arm has a one inch rip both on top and on the bottom! so driving faster than 60mph and the rear starts to shake, and traction is a joke, I get massive wheel hop.
What kind of difference can I expect to see in the 60ft with the new torque arm?
#6
Don't know about the 60' times but, Ring&Pinion, Axles,
Tranny, might be your next worry if running stock driveline
pieces.
Especially on drag radials.
Although your rear gear choice helps take part of the
shock out of it.
Don't think I would be driving around with a ripped
Torque Arm. Can you say, (How to rotate a housing without
even trying.!!)
Later
Tranny, might be your next worry if running stock driveline
pieces.
Especially on drag radials.
Although your rear gear choice helps take part of the
shock out of it.
Don't think I would be driving around with a ripped
Torque Arm. Can you say, (How to rotate a housing without
even trying.!!)
Later
Last edited by jaykar; 06-17-2008 at 04:46 PM.
#7
i think I've made some bad decisions overall:
the transmission's my 7th: 6 4l60E and then I moved to the T-56 and it's been good so far (knock on wood ). The various A4 broke in different ways to make things more confusing.
the rear end has its 3rd set of gears...
so, by now I should have bought hi quality bullet proof parts, but no... I still have a 10 bolt :S
the thing is that I'm not really into racing anymore, I just like to own the red light and that's one reason I care much more about torque than overall power; but that's what may have killed all these transmissions too.
the transmission's my 7th: 6 4l60E and then I moved to the T-56 and it's been good so far (knock on wood ). The various A4 broke in different ways to make things more confusing.
the rear end has its 3rd set of gears...
so, by now I should have bought hi quality bullet proof parts, but no... I still have a 10 bolt :S
the thing is that I'm not really into racing anymore, I just like to own the red light and that's one reason I care much more about torque than overall power; but that's what may have killed all these transmissions too.
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