SS1156

I didn't realize how much these cars flexed I rode in a Camaro that had them. They are definately on my list of goodies to get.

CALL911

If you get the weld in kind (which I reccomend) just make sure whoever is doing the welding is carefull around the fuel lines.

I paid a cheepo exhaust shop (Tuffy) $20 to weld mine in, and they were perfect. A buddy of mine insisted on driving his 3.5 hours away to a well known performance shop (I won't say which one) and was going to pay somewhere in the $100 range to have his welded in. As he had his car on a lift getting the welding done he was asking the owner if he ever ran into any problems. As the owner was telling him he never did have any problems with the installs, the guy doing the welding ignited the fuel lines! Flames shot up the side of his car!! At least the shop took care of the car for my friend, but I had to laugh about it because I got mine done down the street with no trouble at a cheep hill jack shop.

Bayer-Z28

BMR Chrome-Moly Tubular SFC's here. I'd actually prefer the DD's now. But i still like these. I don't think they COMPLETELY do the job, but they hit the nail on the head, per say.

I love it. I couldn't believe the difference they made! They effect everything about the car's handling.

As far as the 'bolt on' idea. I was told once that the weld will produce a better hold. THe bolts can allways have some degree of play. It's common sense, but I just never thought of it at the time.

teyssier

I added Bilstiens as suggested and don't feel any improvement in the "jello feeling". Looking forward to installing sfc's.

Scammper

this question came up a few times during this thread, but quickly got overlooked by other questions...
I have been struggling with the 2 v 3 point sfc question all day. I even dorked out and drew some free body diagrams of the different twists and forces I thought would be put on the car in different situations. I am having a hard time finding a situation where the 3rd point is actually required.
Its only about $120 more for the third point, but if I can prove to myself its not needed, then that money can go into something else... On the other hand if I can prove its worth then I am gonna go with the UMI 3 point bolt in (to be welded soon)

thanks!

JakeRobb

When there is more force pushing front-to-back (or back-to-front) on one side of the car than there is on the other, the third point will help. One example of when this could happen: hitting a pothole.

Impacts with seams and cracks in the road surface are usually evenly distributed across both sides of the car, but not always; an uneven impact in this manner would produce a similar effect.

One situation where one side of the car almost always makes impact first would be pulling from a road to a driveway where there is a noticeable difference in the grade between the two.

I think the 3-point connectors are the way to go for a DD.

Sick97SS

I just bolted in a set of 2 point tubular connectors from UMI Performance and they are amazing. I will get them welded in whenever i get a chance but even with just the bolts the car drives amazingly better. NO MORE T-TOP SQUEEKS!!! no more body roll at all when turning (although i also installed some new poly swaybar endlinks). I live at the bottom of a court and now when i do the turnaround its REALLLLy easy to kick the butt out.

I do see what you mean when you say be careful of the fuel lines when welding because they literally lay on the subframe connector. The whole install took me about 30 mins without even jacking up the car. Well worth it.

here are the ones i ordered:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-02...spagenameZWDVW

Bayer-Z28

^ After my SFC install, it actually made the car a little straighter when I let the rear loose. Before she would kick sideways, EASILY. Now she burns em straight unless I tell it to do otherwise.

touch109

what about if i welded my sub-frames with the car lifted up from its rails not sitting on its wheels

CALL911

As long as the load will be the same as when the weight of the car is supported by the wheels you should be fine. However, if you are holding the car up by part of the frame for example then it won't be a good idea to weld it in that place.

CobraEatr

I just installed my UMI 3-point bolt-in SFCs this weekend and I can tell the difference. I'm happy with the results because my car is a 93 and it just felt very 'loose' before my shock and SFC install. I got some Bilsteins from Sam and put those on before my SFCs. The car is night and day compared to what it was before I put everything on it. It feels tighter and more solid. I can really feel it when I'm on the interstate doing 70mph and I quickly switch lanes.

AlwaysCode390

I just got back from the mechanics trying to get my slp bolt in SFC's installed, but it wouldnt clear my catted edelbrock shortie y- pipe on the passenger side by a good 1/2 inch. I was pretty disappointed.


Am I going to have this problem with my catted y-pipe when I go to my Jet Hot LT's?! What am I supposed to do to get it to fit?! THANKS ---